Hey Guys

I wrote a short article for my website intended for the beginner/novice focusing on the common Cox reed valve type engines and their operation, maintenance and care for easy starting and running. I would really appreciate any feedback about what you think of it. Is there anything that is wrong? Anything to change? Is it helpful? Or does it suck? BE HONEST!
http://www.nrg.to/doughtyhobbies/049tips.htm

Thanks very much for your input

Looks like a noble venture. I sent you and email.

regards - Steve B.

Holy cow! I'll have to print that out and read it in my "office". Looks pretty nice so far.

I know there is a few spelling mistakes that need to be corrected yet. Steve - I have to rush off to an exam, I will read your email when I get back. Looks interesting!

Chris

simple request; could you changge the font type and size?
something like times new roman 14 would make reading eazier

I like detailed descriptions but I've been told by many folks that I often get too long winded and technical and that it's better to just stick to the basics. Your writeup follows what I normally like to do and suffers from the same problem.

I would tend to rewrite it and move the highly technical explanations to an appendix at the end. In the first part just stick to the basics of what the modeller functionally NEEDS in terms of support gear and how to set the engine to run. After that add in options for starting batteries and methods for spinning the prop. Then go into basic cleaning and rebuilding and finally close out with the theory of how the reed intake system functions.

Things to add that I didn't see.....

I have found that the fuel lines need to be filled or the first few primes just don't have any effect other than a burp. I do that by pinching or blocking the overflow just as the first of the extra fuel comes out and keep just a moment of squeeze on the fuel delivery so the pressure fills the pickup or delivery lines.

For an engine that has never run open the needle to 2 1/2 turns. For one that has run I agree with the 1/2 to 3/4 turn open to restart if it's cooled off.

Perhaps offer advice on prop selection.

I like the clean is good note. Perhaps add that the fuel and fuel delivery equipment must be kept spotlessly clean. Filter the fuel through an inline filter or pass it through a coffee filter if you find it's got specks in it. Store the fuel delivery equipment in plastic bags when not in use.

Bruce - Thanks very much for the input. I tend to agree with much of what you said. I will certainly add the items you mentioned that I neglected to include, and re-organize the disscussion a little.

However, about the technical description of the functioning of the engine - I believe that if you are going to be operating and maintaining a mechanical device such as an engine, I think it is very important to understand their inner workings. With a proper understanding of their intricasies, you build up a great deal of respect for just how complicated and precise they are, and are encourage to take good care of it. If things start to wrong with it, you will stand a better chance of diagnosing the problem if you understand how the thing works. An engine should not simply be a 'black box' that you stick on the front of your plane to make it go forward, not understanding how it works. That is why I believe that someone getting started with engines should know the basics of engine operation first before they begin.

Thanks again those who replied. Cmulder - I will increase the font size a little.

While the text is the most important part, A newbee would want to see some pics or illustrations to make the page more palatable. A background would be nice as well. That could be many things. A close up nose shot of a plane where the motor is prominant for example. Made faint so as not to take away from the text.

good idea on the pictures, build light. I will dissassemble one and snap some photos and add captions.

I'm not saying to avoid the technical discussion. I'm only suggesting that it be labeled with a subheading that clearly identifies it as Extra Background Reading and separate from the basic "use a minimum 15% nitro fuel, open the needle valve 2.5 turns, prime a single drop in the exhaust then connect the battery and .... " sort of stuff.

From there you can work into the internal care and rebuild steps, offer pics of the various Cox configurations and similar increasingly more advanced stuff.

One thing I didn't see in scanning through your article is a comment on the proclivity of reed-valve engines to run backwards. I also would not advise flicking the prop. In my experience, this is an exercise in futility. Rather, after the prime, I turn the prop backwards. Hook up the glow plug and hit the prop forward smartly.

I would have ordered the article exactly as you did. We think alike; however people who think like us make up only some 10% of the population. The other 90% are going to want a "do this to start your engine: 1., 2., 3., . . . " up front. They simply won't make the effort to understand the process at the initial point. They want a magic formula for instant success.

Ok the article has been updated according to the advice given. It is now easy to bypass the theory/maintenance section and get straight to a step by step running section. Main subjects are broken down with the use of bold titles, and a number of pictures were added. Thanks to everyone for the feedback. If anyone has anything else, it is easy to add or change.

Chris,
Thanks for writing such a helpful article.
It's coming along nicely. If you havent already, you may wish to link to and put a link on the '1/2a all the way!' site. http://groups.msn.com/12Aalltheway

One thing I noticed that you might add is some mention of the importance of castor oil in the fuel for use in cox engines.

For cox engines, I believe it's generally agreed here that at least some castor oil should be present, for the benefit of the ball socket mostly. I used to be tough to find fuel with castor, but i think there may be a trend for fuel intended for 'nitro' rc cars to now include castor oil, as those poor dirty hot car engines need all the help they can get to survive. The castor oil is also available separately from Sig.

Growing up, one of the main frustrations I had while starting these cox engines for my toy control line planes was the glow battery to glow clip wire connection. Cox sells a battery holder--
http://coxmodels.com/prodinfo.asp?number=C00300

That kit is not too horridly overpriced I guess if you consider the other stuff that comes with it, but still over 10 dollars plus the shipping and wait for it to arrive.

Now that I have a proper soldering iron, I just solder the cox glow plug clip wires to a D cell.

I hate to admit, but in a pinch, I have rubber-banded the wires onto the battery! Works fine until the battery gets greasy in the exaust of the engine then the rubber bands sail off. Had to do that last Christmas when I also got one of those worthless 'cold heat' battery powered 'soldering' irons.

Glad you like it. Good idea about 1/2Aalltheway. I will post a link there.

I am probably going to catch flack for admitting this, but I only ever use sythetic fuels now. I cannot see with modern technology why a synthetic oil would be any less effective in lubricating an engine. Castor Oil certainly used to be the hot setup in racing sports, such as motorcycle racing, but has all but been replaced now with synthetics. In my Dads new motorcycle, it is REQUIRED that you only use a special synthetic oil in it. Yes I am aware these are very different engines, but it is still an interesting trend.

I know it is generally agreed that castor is necessary for 049s so I will not post my views on the website until there is more of a following. But I will say this - I have never had a problem from lack of lubrication in an engine yet.

hahah, well I can one up you there - I often hold the leads onto a battery by pinching it with my fingers!

I use a 2 volt, 5 amphr gell cell and light up those Cox plugs! A hot battery makes a huge difference in starting.

Great write up on the Cox engine, sure is a life saver for me because I wouldn't know head from toe on these little wonders, but now I have a guide and reduces the amount of future questions when the time for use of these engines come (have 2 NIB).