Cox Reed Valve FAQ
07-16-2009, 11:40 PM
#201
Senior Member
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Tom You bear good news and I applaud your enthusiasm! However you should be getting better RPMs from your Golden Bee and I suddest changing props to a 5 1/4X4 or something less than a 6X3. You may also need to reset the ball socket on the piston.
Remember also that the Cox engines like high nitro content and lots if not all castor oil in the fuel.
The Grace is a good choice of models to build!
Robert
Remember also that the Cox engines like high nitro content and lots if not all castor oil in the fuel.
The Grace is a good choice of models to build!
Robert
07-16-2009, 11:51 PM
#202
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Yeah, I'm going to continue to work on it. The prop I have looks massive compared to the old Cox 6-3. But will see if I can work on the conrod piston tolerance and the seal between the backplate. Oh and the fuel I used was 13 year old Cox fuel that I had. I'm sure some good new fuel might make a difference. But so far, so good.
07-17-2009, 12:00 AM
#203
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
As of July 16, there is a Cox .049 reed valve engine along with a Baby Ringmaster up for auction on that famous auction site we all know about. Do a search for Cox. Click on the newly listed box and go looking for it. You will probably have to go back a few days to find it.
07-17-2009, 06:11 AM
#204
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
ORIGINAL: Andrew
Dual slit cylinders have opposing flats ground into the top fin of the cylinder. You can use a wrench on these flats. If your cylinder is very tight, I would suggest that you leave the glow head in place to help support cylinder walls and avoid getting the upper end out of round.
andrew
Dual slit cylinders have opposing flats ground into the top fin of the cylinder. You can use a wrench on these flats. If your cylinder is very tight, I would suggest that you leave the glow head in place to help support cylinder walls and avoid getting the upper end out of round.
andrew
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!
Jon
07-17-2009, 09:50 PM
#205
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
ORIGINAL: russiet
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!
Without flats, that leaves you with a few other options.
1. You could use a pair of pliers. [
] But, that's considered bad form, desecration of the engine and would probably get you tarred and feathered by the group here. Heck, it may get me tarred and feathered just for mentioning it.2. You can cut flats using a Dremel and cutoff wheel - it's been done by some members here, but takes a steady hand.
3. Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the cylinder in the area of the exhaust slits. Cut the block in two, thru the center of the hole, then use it as a clamp to hold the cylinder (a vice works best) while you turn the crankcase.
4. You can wrap the cylinder with a piece of thick leather, then apply pliers. I've done this frequently using a piece of thick strap that I got from the local cobbler. I have used nylon webbing, but the webbing will occasionally cut thru leaving marks on whatever I'm grasping. If the cylinder is very tight, it usually helps to apply heat to the case - a heat gun used for shrinking the plastic coverings works nicely.
5. You can wait for other and perhaps better suggestions for the group here - if one of the regular posters can't answer your question, it probably doesn't have one.
andrew
07-18-2009, 07:05 PM
#206
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
There's a sponge rubber matting that you can buy at the Kitchen department at Wal-Mart. I believe that it's used for draining dishes. I find that it's excellent for gripping things - it has a lot of 'grip' even though its only about 1/8" thick. That might work along with the wood block idea.
Bob
Bob
07-20-2009, 08:52 PM
#207
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
.049 reedie car crankcase advice needed.
I have a new (old stock) car crankcase and and crank
part #190-0, and am wondering what to do as far
as converting it with a prop drive plate.
It's obvious the splined (not tapered type) end of the crankshaft, where the
drive plate would attach, is larger in diameter than both the stock
or the TD .049/.051 one.
I've heard of this conversion being done, but I don't remember how.
Thanks in advance,
D.
I have a new (old stock) car crankcase and and crank
part #190-0, and am wondering what to do as far
as converting it with a prop drive plate.
It's obvious the splined (not tapered type) end of the crankshaft, where the
drive plate would attach, is larger in diameter than both the stock
or the TD .049/.051 one.
I've heard of this conversion being done, but I don't remember how.
Thanks in advance,
D.
07-23-2009, 08:48 AM
#208
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
ORIGINAL: Andrew
Jon
Without flats, that leaves you with a few other options.
1. You could use a pair of pliers. [] But, that's considered bad form, desecration of the engine and would probably get you tarred and feathered by the group here. Heck, it may get me tarred and feathered just for mentioning it.
2. You can cut flats using a Dremel and cutoff wheel - it's been done by some members here, but takes a steady hand.
3. Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the cylinder in the area of the exhaust slits. Cut the block in two, thru the center of the hole, then use it as a clamp to hold the cylinder (a vice works best) while you turn the crankcase.
4. You can wrap the cylinder with a piece of thick leather, then apply pliers. I've done this frequently using a piece of thick strap that I got from the local cobbler. I have used nylon webbing, but the webbing will occasionally cut thru leaving marks on whatever I'm grasping. If the cylinder is very tight, it usually helps to apply heat to the case - a heat gun used for shrinking the plastic coverings works nicely.
5. You can wait for other and perhaps better suggestions for the group here - if one of the regular posters can't answer your question, it probably doesn't have one.
andrew
ORIGINAL: russiet
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!
I know what you mean, but there aren't flats on the top fin (or any fin) of this particular cylinder!
Without flats, that leaves you with a few other options.
1. You could use a pair of pliers. [
] But, that's considered bad form, desecration of the engine and would probably get you tarred and feathered by the group here. Heck, it may get me tarred and feathered just for mentioning it.2. You can cut flats using a Dremel and cutoff wheel - it's been done by some members here, but takes a steady hand.
3. Drill a hole in a block of wood the diameter of the cylinder in the area of the exhaust slits. Cut the block in two, thru the center of the hole, then use it as a clamp to hold the cylinder (a vice works best) while you turn the crankcase.
4. You can wrap the cylinder with a piece of thick leather, then apply pliers. I've done this frequently using a piece of thick strap that I got from the local cobbler. I have used nylon webbing, but the webbing will occasionally cut thru leaving marks on whatever I'm grasping. If the cylinder is very tight, it usually helps to apply heat to the case - a heat gun used for shrinking the plastic coverings works nicely.
5. You can wait for other and perhaps better suggestions for the group here - if one of the regular posters can't answer your question, it probably doesn't have one.
andrew
Suggestion #3 sounds like a winner. Haven't gotten back to that engine to try it. I was running a resurrected Babe Bee .049 with a black widow tank on a 1/2A Sky Ray with my 14 year old daughter last night. Lots of fun. She complained about dizzyness, so I ran into the circle and we transferred the handle without crashing. Of course I did on the third wingover.
09-21-2009, 08:45 PM
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Good news COXinternational has new heads,gaskets and just about anything you want or need. With a few exceptions like small tank and 7x3.5 props. Their web sight is www.coxengines.ca yea its in canada.but i havehad nothing but great service and parts are very reasonable. just my 2 cents
09-30-2009, 10:02 PM
#211
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Do the Sure Starts benefit with a piece of tubing on the needle valve to create a better seal? The reason I ask is when starting one tonight, I noticed when I pushed down on the needle it sped up and screamed a higher pitch.
10-01-2009, 03:40 AM
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
ORIGINAL: Tom Nied
Do the Sure Starts benefit with a piece of tubing on the needle valve to create a better seal? The reason I ask is when starting one tonight, I noticed when I pushed down on the needle it sped up and screamed a higher pitch.
Do the Sure Starts benefit with a piece of tubing on the needle valve to create a better seal? The reason I ask is when starting one tonight, I noticed when I pushed down on the needle it sped up and screamed a higher pitch.
05-01-2010, 07:38 AM
#215
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
If you guys contact Cox international in Canada , They have all the Cox stuff 1-877-769-1779, they have all the cox stuff i just bought a NEW sure start for $14.85, a cylinder
piston rod assembly is $4.95 all the lower end stuff too crankcases shafts and all orginal cox parts they bought all the Estes stock, They will have an RC cox in about a month
amazing all the little bits an pieces ,heads back plates rebuild kits, spinners too(check their on line site) and prices, Add a Davis diesel head and one of the best little diesels out there martin
new baby bees $39.95 if you want nice pretty colors they are $10 more
Light bolt thx missed your post when I did this , one important thing is we can get the cox stuff and new engines and priced right thus no issues withy used * bay stuff
piston rod assembly is $4.95 all the lower end stuff too crankcases shafts and all orginal cox parts they bought all the Estes stock, They will have an RC cox in about a month
amazing all the little bits an pieces ,heads back plates rebuild kits, spinners too(check their on line site) and prices, Add a Davis diesel head and one of the best little diesels out there martin
new baby bees $39.95 if you want nice pretty colors they are $10 more
Light bolt thx missed your post when I did this , one important thing is we can get the cox stuff and new engines and priced right thus no issues withy used * bay stuff
05-02-2010, 12:35 PM
#216
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Thanks for the kind post AMB.
We saw your mention of the RC engine and would like toadvise that, as of yesterday, we have one form of a throttled engine as well ar R/C throttle rings available. Here are some links:
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=13&page=1
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=13&page=1
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=16&page=2
We also currently have in production an R/C throttle that will mount into the Surestart choke tube, permitting the simultaneous use of a throtlle and and a muffler.
Cheers
Bernie
We saw your mention of the RC engine and would like toadvise that, as of yesterday, we have one form of a throttled engine as well ar R/C throttle rings available. Here are some links:
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=13&page=1
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=13&page=1
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?pro...&cat=16&page=2
We also currently have in production an R/C throttle that will mount into the Surestart choke tube, permitting the simultaneous use of a throtlle and and a muffler.
Cheers
Bernie
07-25-2010, 03:57 PM
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
This question got lost somewhat in the "COX 049 Bee mixed parts" thread.
Does anyone know the origin of this tank?
It doesn't use a spring or plastic retainer to hold the reed.
The edges of the reed get tucked into a groove where the
e-clip would usually seat, and thats it.
If it was a prototype, I can see why it didn't work out.
It's a bit of a task to install the reed in it.
It's an 8cc tank with stunt venting.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Bob
Does anyone know the origin of this tank?
It doesn't use a spring or plastic retainer to hold the reed.
The edges of the reed get tucked into a groove where the
e-clip would usually seat, and thats it.
If it was a prototype, I can see why it didn't work out.
It's a bit of a task to install the reed in it.
It's an 8cc tank with stunt venting.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Bob
08-13-2010, 07:01 PM
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Hi,
Regarding the question above, I'm starting to think the answer is so obvious
that it doesn't warrent a reply.Hmmm. Or, nobody knows. Hmmm.
I dunno.[sm=drowning.gif]
Regarding the question above, I'm starting to think the answer is so obvious
that it doesn't warrent a reply.Hmmm. Or, nobody knows. Hmmm.
I dunno.[sm=drowning.gif]
08-14-2010, 04:32 AM
#220
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
It just looks like a regular tank without a circlip mounted to me.
In second hand engines you can find just about anything, I have seen circlips mounted the wrong way around etc. Now you know why it was sold in the first place...
In second hand engines you can find just about anything, I have seen circlips mounted the wrong way around etc. Now you know why it was sold in the first place...
08-14-2010, 11:10 AM
#223
RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
On current Sure Starts they do not have the circlip but instead a reed retainer. xenalook's photo http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/m/mt7I...Q7swqg/140.jpg I know the one pictured above looks like it might be made of aluminum.
08-14-2010, 02:19 PM
#224
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
Thanks for the responses.
I gave it another real hard look and considdered the answers above.
I tried putting a circlip in but it wont seat and pops right out.
The same spring mounts in a "normal" tank, no problem.
If I could get the clip to seat, it would hold the reed tight against the
fuel-air passage, not alowing it to float.
None of the plastic retainers will fit on the tank. I tried the sure start
type and the top hat styles for extruded and cast cases and they dont fit.
It's not a metal sure start style retainer, it's all one piece.
The reed has to be flexed and tucked into the groove.
Here's another photo.
I gave it another real hard look and considdered the answers above.
I tried putting a circlip in but it wont seat and pops right out.
The same spring mounts in a "normal" tank, no problem.
If I could get the clip to seat, it would hold the reed tight against the
fuel-air passage, not alowing it to float.
None of the plastic retainers will fit on the tank. I tried the sure start
type and the top hat styles for extruded and cast cases and they dont fit.
It's not a metal sure start style retainer, it's all one piece.
The reed has to be flexed and tucked into the groove.
Here's another photo.
08-14-2010, 02:25 PM
#225
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RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ
I have come across this tank on numerous occasions. The tank should not require a reed retainer as it is designed that way.
As to when and why Cox made them that way, dunno but I'll ask the question of someone that might know.
Bernie
As to when and why Cox made them that way, dunno but I'll ask the question of someone that might know.
Bernie