redbird340

A. Introduction

Engine mounting is important. The engine must be firmly mounted to your model in a manner that will not come loose, distort the crankcase, or allow vibration. The relative position of the engine and tank are also key elements in achieving steady runs at full power. Finally, the precise angles up, down, and side to side at which the engine is mounted to the model are a significant factor in getting your model to fly the best it can.

NORVEL engines (except the BigMig Start'up .049 and .061) are beam mounted. This means that they are secured by screws that extend through the two lugs on the crankcase of the engine. The model must have two beams that extend from the nose, or, one of the commercial 1/2A engine mounts (such as the NORVEL #0506 mount) may be used to mount the engine on a flat fire-wall.

For control-line models, built in beams are very sensible. They are lighter than the plastic mounts, stronger, and provide the best damping of engine vibration. For free-flight and radio control models, the plastic mounts make a lot of sense. They are convenient, provide easy adjustment of thrust angles, and will break in the event of a crash; a feature that can minimize damage to both the engine and the model by sacrificing an expendable element.

Whichever type of mounting you use, it is vital to be sure that the surfaces are perfectly flat. Any twist or angle in the mounting surfaces will slightly distort the crankcase of the engine and reduce both its performance and life. It is recommended that you flatten the beams on plastic mounts by filing or sanding across both beams simultaneously until they are perfectly parallel to each other and flat across.


1. 1/2 A Stunt (Precision Aerobatics)

This event requires moderate power, but an absolutely steady engine run for a minimum of 5 minutes. Over the years fuel tanks have been developed to provide this kind of performance. The best combination of NORVEL engine/prop/fuel tank we have found for 1/2A Stunt is as follows: The BigMig .049 engine with the pressure tap coverplate, a Tornado 5x3 propeller, 30% nitro fuel, three head gaskets, and a 1 ounce uniflow stunt tank.

This combination will run above 20,000 rpm, so that the model can fly on 50 ft. of .008 cable flying lines and still have a lap time around 4 1/2 seconds. Due to the uniflow tank and coverplate pressure, the run will be very consistent and powerful no matter what attitude the model has.

2. 1/2 A Combat

Here we need the ultimate power and speed. The way to achieve this is to use the NORVEL AME .049 and a pressure bladder fuel tank. Propeller should be 5x3 or 5x4; there are several popular brands. Again Tornado props seem to perform well, although there is a Cox 5x4 black prop that is popular because it is very rugged.

Fuel should be in the 30% nitro range. The fuel tank is generally a piece of surgical tubing with one end tied off. A syringe is used to produce enough pressure to blow up the tube to several times its regular diameter. A forceps is used to pinch off the fuel line until the engine is running.

3. Control-line Carrier

For carrier flying, it is required that a throttle be used. Since the event is based on the difference between high and low speeds, the NORVEL AME .049 R/C is the engine of choice. It is suggested that a 5x4 prop be used to maximize the speed, and a muffler pressure system be used for reliable fuel delivery.

4. Scale Model

Here it is typical to use a throttled engine, but since speed is not an issue, the BigMig .049 (or .061 if the rules allow) would be a good choice. Reliable idle and throttle performance are a key element in scoring function flight points. The propeller choice depends partly on the model, but aim for rpm's in the 16,000 to 18,000 range. Use 15% to 30% Nitro for reliability and power output. Work with the compression to get the best idle setting, probably three or even four gaskets.

C. Free-Flight

There are two high performance events in free- flight for which the NORVEL engines are ideal, AMA 1/2A gas and the international F1J class. For the first, an .049 is the limiting size, so the NORVEL AME .049 is a great choice. Fuel should be 35% Nitro. Experiment to find the highest compression (fewest head gaskets) that the engine can handle. The prop of choice seems to be the APC 5.5 x 2.

For F1J, an .061 is allowed, so select the AME .061 for this event. A larger prop can be used with this engine, and the APC 6 x 2 works well. The key here is to have massive pulling power to accelerate the model quickly, and pull it straight up as fast as possible. Free-flight power is like a vertical drag race. You want to get as high as possible in just a few seconds. The hole shot is where the race is won.

If you want to use a NORVEL engine for free-flight scale, or Texaco events, you can run the engines with large propellers if needed. We have actually had success turning propellers up to 8 x 3.5. The rpm's dropped to just under 9500, but the run was steady. Only a brief test was tried, and the optimum nitro level and compression ratio would probably cause some slight improvement. Care would be needed to assure good cooling of the engine, as high loadings tend to cause overheating.


Sport

For sport use, we recommended .061 size engines. There is no rule limit on engine size, and the power to weight of the .061 is 20% better than the .049. You can always throttle back if your model is overpowered. For the casual sport flier, the ease of operation and fuel economy of the BigMig engine is desirable. The propeller to use depends on the type of model.

For a basic trainer or for powering a glider, consider a Grish Tornado 6x3 or 6x3 Master Airscrew. For a sport aerobatic model, try either an APC 5.7 x 3 or a Tornado 5.5x4. Keep the nitro content of the fuel around 15% to allow cooler runs, better fuel economy and longer engine life.

As always, experiment with head gaskets, but it is likely that two will be the right number. When using an electric starter on a muffled engine with muffler pressure to the tank, try this: Begin with the engine completely dry of fuel. Attach the glow plug clip, and then put one finger over the muffler exhaust pipe. Touch the electric starter to the prop, and the engine will pump fuel to itself and kick off nearly instantly. Note that this takes more than two hands to accomplish!

Pylon Racing


The need for speed here is a balance between acceleration at the start, pulling power in the turns, and the highest speed on the straights. As with Control-Line Combat, a pressure bladder tank and 5 x 3 or 5 x 4 props seem to be the winning combination. Of course the AME .049 is the engine of choice here. Nitro content of the fuel should be 35%, and raise the compression as far as you can without compromising steady runs throughout the race.

Ducted Fan

The secret to success in Ducted Fan model power is high rpm's, so the engine to use is the AME .061. Since you are running in a duct, you probably want to run without the muffler. The duct will provide pretty good sound attenuation, and the added blockage of your duct by a muffler's frontal area would degrade the thrust produced.

Make a needle valve extension from some spring steel wire, and couple it to the engine s needle with some fuel hose. This will make the minimum hole in your duct wall, and the flexible coupling will reduce the possibility of vibration making your needle setting change.
High power output needs high nitro and the optimized compression level. Try to select a fan that allows the engine to run between 22,000 and 25,000 rpm.

Pusher Installations

When using NORVEL engines in a pusher configuration, it is important to remember that the engine does not receive any cooling flow when on the ground, and less than normal in the air. As such, use a tractor or standard prop of identical type and size to the pusher prop when making ground tests and adjustments. Again, due to reduced cooling, use a slightly smaller prop size than you would for normal in-flight use.

An important point in pusher installations is to make sure the tank will draw fuel correctly. As such, the clunk needs to be at the rear of the tank next to the engine. In addition, the engine will tend to go rich in a climb because the tank will be above it, rather than below. To compensate for this, be sure to use a muffler pressure tap to minimize the variation in fuel delivery.

If you are not using a throttle, the coverplate pressure tap would be an even better choice.


When flying R/C, there are a few accessories that will make life a lot easier, and add to your flying enjoyment. First of all, get a good flight box . Make sure it is equipped with all the wrenches, screwdrivers, and pliers you need for on the field adjustments. Then stock it with spare glowplugs, gaskets, propellers, rubber bands, and similar disposable replacement items.

Some of the best accessories to have are the power panel , fuel pump and electric starter. To optimize performance of your engines, buy a tachometer. They cost about the same as a NORVEL engine, and will improve all your engine powered flying.

Keep a notebook with the results of every test run so that you can go back to what you need for a new situation without having to repeat the same experiments over and over. Record the exact engine configuration, number of gaskets, fuel type, propeller, etc. and the resulting rpm's and any handling difficulties.

Get a good set of ultraviolet blocking safety sunglasses. Your eyes cannot be replaced, and they are at a double risk in this situation. Prop blades have been known to separate, especially on high powered engines. In addition, the prop could pick up small pebbles and throw them; so safety glasses provide important protection. Finally, a good set of sunglasses will protect your eyes from UV radiation. Always wear hearing protection.

redbird340

The following few posts are reserved for additions in the near future; apart from a few other articles, they will contain sound files for norvel engines.

redbird340

The main difference between high-elevation and low-elevation is engine compression. As elevation is increased, compression in the engine will decrease, due to lower overall air density.

Using a NORVEL .061 as an example, we can look at some of the special techniques for breaking-in and running an engine at high- elevation.

Engines produce less power as elevation is increased. Some modelers who live in high-elevation areas have continual problems with underpowered airplanes. If you live in such an area, you should first of all build light! It never hurts to build light. But let's say you already have your engine and your plane, a Herr AT- 6 with NORVEL B6R .061 engine.

For break-in, you may not need to add any additional gaskets beyond the one already installed, and 25% nitro would be a good bet for a fuel. As the engine breaks-in, you will want to remove the .2mm gasket that comes installed and replace it with one of the .1mm gaskets taped to the instruction sheet. This will raise the compression further.

Some customers in high- elevation areas will run their engines with NVX35 as a matter of practice, just to increase power some. But this is not always required. It depends on the actual elevation, of course.

One of the nice things about NORVEL engines is that they are made from all- aluminum integral cylinder/piston sets. They are very light for the power output. Our .061 weighs just 1.8 oz., and develops the same power as the MPJet .061, which weighs more than twice as much. Less weight in the engine lowers the weight of the plane. And that helps as much as anything when trying to build and fly something at high- elevations.

redbird340

Small radio controlled models have sparked the interest of modelers ever since the transistor was invented. In fact, there were even some 1/2A size models designed during the era when tubes were the only way to fly. Unlike the bad old days, you now can get a 4 channel, fully proportional radio system that weighs half what a single channel non-proportional radio used to weigh. Between that, and the fact that NORVEL engines have nearly twice the power of the engines of the old days, things have definitely improved!

Even so, it is still necessary to pay attention to weight. Carry no more equipment than you need, and make it the smallest and lightest you can find/afford. Only a very few applications need more torque than the smallest servos provide. It should not be necessary to use a servo larger than a mini on a NORVEL powered model, and generally, micro servos will do the job.

The number of channels you need depends on the model. For many planes, 2 channels is enough. For sport flying of gliders, pylon racing, schoolyard scale, old-timer replicas, you only need rudder or ailerons, and elevator.

For some applications, you may want to add throttle, so a 3 channel rig is in order. Scale models, and sport aerobatic planes are more fun with a throttle, but without the complexity and weight of the fourth channel. For full aerobatic flying, the 4 channel radio is good. Most maneuvers require continuous coordination of ailerons, elevator, rudder and throttle to make the shapes come out perfectly.
The key to enjoyable R/C flight is to have a very powerful engine that weighs very little, with a smooth throttle action. The NORVEL .049- .061engines have a speed range of 3 to 1, or better if you're using the #110138 Freedom XL glow plug. That is, if you prop the engine for 21,000 rpm, you can probably get an idle lower than 7,000 rpm. This is roughly equivalent to a .40 that runs at 11,000, and idles at 3,500.

Norvel engines are the lightest available engines for their displacement. The .06 R/C engines with throttle and muffler weigh a mere 1.8 ounces. This compares to the two nearest competitive engines, 3.5 ounces for the MP-Jet .061 and 2.5 ounces for the Cox TeeDee .051 R/C (which has 20% less displacement). When you consider that an extra servo weighs less than 3/4 ounce, that kind of weight saving is significant.

redbird340

I have a ½A kit that flies on a Cox engine. How compatible is a NORVEL engine with my kit and field accessories?

Very compatible. The radial mounting holes on a NORVEL fuel tank mount match up to those on Cox's radial mounted engines (such as BabeBee, Black Widow, and Texaco). NORVEL engine beam mounting holes are the same pattern as those on the Cox TeeDee engines. NORVEL engines are compatible with Cox glow heads and fuel.

Can I use a standard glow plug in a NORVEL .049-.061 engine?

Yes, if you use a NORVEL plug adapter part #100148. Performance is usually 15-20% lower in this case, but some customers find the convenience worth the sacrifice in power.

What kind of fuel should I use in my .049 or .061 NORVEL engine?

Recommended fuels are list in the Technical Information Library. Nitro content of 10% is good, and up to 35% is acceptable. It is important to use a recommended brand, so read the article in the T.I.L. You can cause problems with engine running if you use the wrong fuel.

What fuel do you really recommend, though?

Naturally, we really recommend NORVEL NVX-brand fuel. We have tested it thoroughly and know it works perfectly with our engines. Use NVX15 or NVX25 for break-in, and NVX35 for extra power.

How many rpm's will my engine achieve?

There are many variables which determine the rpm's of a motor. Prop size, fuel, compression, and local atmospheric conditions are just a few. Look at our technical articles for information on props and fuel combinations and for concrete test results. You'll see that NORVEL engines are by far the most powerful production engines for their size and weight in the world.

How much fuel will a NORVEL #102100 or #102200 fuel tank hold?

The 102100 holds about ½oz. Depending on which engine you use with it, the tank will hold enough fuel for 2-8 minutes of flight. The 102200 tank holds a little less than 1 oz. of fuel.

What type of fuel tubing do I need for a NORVEL .049-.061 engine and a NORVEL fuel tank mount?

NORVEL #0830, Sig medium, or Aerotrend small. Use of large fuel tubing can cause leakage and engine running problems.

The AME and BigMig .049-.061 engines look exactly the same. What makes the AME more powerful?

The fuel ports inside the cylinder of the AME are three large ports, allowing for greater flow of fuel to the combustion chamber. The BigMig uses five small ports, which give a little more suction for easier starting, but take a little off of top end rpm.

Also, the AME has a tighter cylinder/piston fit so it will have higher compression and more power. But, it takes longer to break-in.


The .049 and .061 engines look exactly the same. How are they different? I can I tell the difference between them if I have one of each?

The .061 has a larger bore. If you remove the head of each engine, you can see the bore of each cylinder. The bore is the diameter of the inside part of the cylinder. The .061's bore is visibly larger than the .049's.

How do I fill the tank on BigMig Start'up engine?

Point the plane nose to ground, and it will fill without flooding the carburetor. Or, if you have a tank with pressure release valve (new feature), simply press the release valve when filling.

My NORVEL engine feels very tight at top dead center (when I move the piston through the top of its stroke). Is this normal?

Yes, this is completely normal. Read the technical article on engine tightness for more information.

redbird340

Lots of guys are wondering what is so special about the NORVEL .15 engines. Those who know NORVEL know that our engines are unique, so they see and understand the new technology and special design features right away. But others who aren't really into engines figure we're just running a bunch of hype.

Nothing could be further from the truth. The NORVEL .15 engines are innovative, powerful, and friendly. In ways you can't appreciate unless you read this article carefully or fly a NORVEL .15 for yourself.

First, the innovation. You've probably heard something about this already. With its new .15 size engines with AAO Ceramic Sealô Cylinder/Piston technology, NORVEL becomes the first company in the world using ceramics in model engine cylinders. Designated AAO (Aluminum-Aluminum-Oxide), this technology offers longer operating life, cooler running, incredible fuel efficiency, improved cleanliness, and more power.

The .15 size engines have a one-piece high-silicon content cylinder head/sleeve that is treated in a special electro-chemical process bath. The exposed aluminum is transformed into ceramic-structured aluminum oxide. When aluminum oxide is used for wear resistance, as in the NORVEL AAO cylinder/piston set, it is unmatched by chrome, nickel, or even steel. Besides being extremely durable, NORVEL AAO ceramic technology has superior heat dissipation characteristics.

AAO ceramic technology, though, is far ahead of ABC technology on the single most important engine characteristic - the compression seal. The AAO cylinder/sleeve, like all ceramics, is porous and holds oil inside its tiny little pores. As oil is retained in the sleeve itself, and in special oil grooves in the piston, the compression seal is hydraulic and very tight, but has a very low coefficient of friction. By the nature of AAO technology, friction is decreased, and compression is increased. Fuel efficiency is improved 20-40%, and power is improved.

While all this tech talk is neat, one interesting fact is easy to overlook. NORVEL .15's (like all NORVEL engines) don't have a brass sleeve. The cylinder head and sleeve is one piece of precision machined aluminum. Although weight savings and improved heat-dissipation are significant advantages brought by this feature, most engine manufacturers don't bother with All- Aluminum engines. Why? They can't figure out how to plate or coat the inside of the slippery, high-silicon content aluminum sleeve evenly at a reasonable price. Most aluminum-sleeved engines cost $200 or more.

Believe it or not, it took our Russian rocket scientists three years to figure out this process. After gaining a foot in the market with our .049 engines, we set our sights on bigger engines. The engineers quickly decided that designing more ABC engines was pointless. ABC technology is over 40 years old, it has been perfected, and it has basically reached its maximum potential. Since all-aluminum sleeves have proven to be better in many other types of engine, our engineers set on developing the tricky technology required to coat or plate such a small diameter sleeve.

All-aluminum sleeve construction is the reason our engines are so light, which must be considered carefully when comparing our power figures to those of other engine manufacturers.

That leads us right to power. We published that our A15BB and A15BBR would turn 22,000 rpm with an 7x4 prop. This was an APC, with high nitro, high compression, and no muffler. The engine was meticulously broken-in and run with a super glow plug (like a Nelson plug). If you run the muffler, you should get around 18,000-20,000 rpm with the same prop. The B15 and B15R will turn about 17,000-19,000 rpm with the muffler. Not all customers will get this performance due to user skills, but most will be close. Some customers get more.

Basically, when you consider the weight, these engines are screamers. And if you build a performance or competitive airplane around this light weight powerplant, your plane will fly faster and climb better than with a heavier engine. Every ounce counts in a performance aircraft. Period.

Probably the most startling, most significant "special" thing about these engines is how friendly they are at the field.
The BigMig Sport .15 engines come with a single needle carburetor with air bleed. The carburetor can be rotated or angled up to 20 degrees for safer needle operation. The AME High- performance .15 engines come with a dual-needle carburetor. The needle on the AME engines is angled at approximately 40 degrees. Transition is instant on these carburetors, and they give a nice solid idle. Non-throttled NORVEL .15's can have the venturi removed and either carburetor (single or dual needle) installed easily. The simple carb designs promise years of reliable operation even under tough regimes of operation.

The muffler that comes with the engines is a unique three-baffle design that keeps power up and noise down. It sounds really cool, too. There's even an oil retaining area, which can be emptied after each flight. This keeps your model a little cleaner - a nice touch. The muffler is equipped with a pressure tap for pressurizing fuel supply and is retained by a strong spring clip.

The spring clip stretches and protects the engine from damage when crashed, and ensures a tight seal under changing thermodynamic conditions. If you've ever seen a muffler or crankcase demolished from a crash, you'll appreciate this unique design feature and how much money it alone can save. That's right, not just friendly in the air. Friendly in a crash, too. And don't forget the dust filter on all carbs, which protects the engine for longer life.

Both BigMig Sport and AME High-performance engines come with a removable prop screw, which protects the crankshaft from damage during crashes and reduces repair costs. A lot of companies don't do this anymore, just to keep the engines cheap. But how much does a crankshaft cost when you bend it on a "fast landing"? Our solution is cheaper in the long-run.

Best of all, the NORVEL AAO .15 engines are friendly to use, with hot and cold starting really easy. Their quality in workmanship and length of operation exceeds that of the already famous NORVEL .049-.061 engines, so any modeler can expect countless hours of performance and enjoyment from these premium Russian-made beauties.

Well, thanks for reading this long article. There's a lot good to say about the NORVEL .15 engines. Unique technology. Neat features. Low weight. Easy hot and cold starting. Besides these important technical points, keep in mind that they don't cost a fortune, either. Sure, you pay a little more for a NORVEL engine, but you get A LOT MORE in return. The benefits of new engine technology. The benefits of higher power-to-weight performance. The benefits of user-friendly design and operation.

redbird340

5

Andrew

redbird340

Thanks - that took some effort and is much appreciated.

PlaneKrazee

My Feedback: (14)

rb340,

Very nice of you to post this info.

redbird340

Andrew and PlaneKrazee, i have found a wealth of information on the forum here, and i am glad that i can contribute, although none of what i have posted is my work.

Apart from the sound files, i am fairly certain that i have posted all the articles that i had, but if i come across more, they will be posted, too. The sound files will be uploaded very soon.

Mooney_driver

Can anyone tell me where to find a parts breakdown and part numbers for the Novel 1/2A's?

Andrew

[link=http://www.quicktechhobby.com/Engines/norvel_engine_parts.htm]This site may help.[/link]. I can also send you a copy of the operating instructions - which engine are you interested in? The instructions have an exploded view plus part numbers.

However, finding parts may be a different matter. Sheldon's on the big auction site has been selling off parts lately. They may have what you're looking for.

redbird340

If you are looking for the manual for a 061, it's posted on the first page of this thread, in post #7; if in search of 049 or 074 part numbers, PM me your mailing address and i will drop them in the mail for you.

Entropy

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone know how to get the prop washer off of the older style cranks so I can get the crank out? It's not a D-Cut prop washer and crank like the newer ones...it's seems to be press-fitted...

iflyg450

VERY NEWBIE QUESTION. Where do you get a spacer to mount a APC Prop onto a norvel .064 and .074??

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Most folks, myself included, use a piece of small fuel tubing. Tim W. was making nice aluminum ones, but he's not been around lately.

David

Andrew

A few APC props shipped with spacers on a breakoff tree, but most do not.

The best option is to have a spacer turned from aluminum that indexes on the cutout on the front of the APC hub since the holes in the prop hub are not always centered.

However, many folks just use a piece of fuel tubing slipped over the prop screw. Cut the tubing so it does not extend beyond the hole in the prop it's purpose is to hold the prop centered until the prop screw is tightened down.


EDIT: Whoops rainedave slipped in first.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Entropy, remove the backplate, cylinder and rod/piston. The prop is off already, but screw the prop bolt back into the crank. Line the jaws of your bench vise with smooth metal, set the engine in there squarely and tighten the jaws just enough to break the collet free. Some neanderthals [or was that Cro Magnons?] do it by beating the crank free, take your pick.

GrahamC

APC states that the rear side of the prop hub is centered not the front. That is why the "spacers" are to fit the back side of the prop.

Different props use different sizes as well.

details here:

http://www.apcprop.com/html/tech_support_notice.html


Also interesting are prop RPM limits detailed here:

http://www.apcprop.com/html/rpm_limits.html

I have a lathe and make them when needed. Easy and simple to make and I think better than the molded ones sometime provided with the props. They have a taper of about 3 degrees to fit the props. PM me if you are really stuck and work something out.

I should get off my behind and post a few details for the FAQ

cheers, Graham

iflyg450

I know this question has been brought up in the past but I couldn't find it. Very new to 1/2a flying making my first 1/2a flights this Sunday. My question is what kind of flight time will I get with a 1oz tank running a Norvel .061 non-throttle? Also need flight times for a Norvel .074 using a 2oz tank

Entropy

My Feedback: (2)

So what did you find out iflyg450? How long did the C/L .061 fly on 1 oz.? I'm going to be using a 1 oz. tank on a R/C .049 so maybe I can get an estimate based on your experience. (Or if others have experience they can answer...hint hint)

iflyg450

Haven't flown it yet. We have had 15mph+ and rain on Sunday. I hope to have a go with it this coming Sunday. I am guessing it will be about 8min?

mikegordon10

We race the Norvel AME's .061 on a ten lap, 300' pylon course.
Using a 1 oz tank - If your good you can get er started in the allowed 1 minute, launch, do 11 laps and the engine will die from fuel starvation on about lap 12 or 13. That's prolly about 3 minutes total. This is with small props , 35% nitro at 4500'. These engines are turning anywhere from 26,000 to 29,000.
Myself, (and a lot of others) use a 1.5 oz bullet tank and fill it to about an ounce and a quarter. Hope this gives you some idea.

mm

hello,

i'am new to 1/2 A and would like to know if norvel always exist ???

thank you

stephane

mikegordon10

Nope, they is gone. The only ones I've bought lately is off from flee-bay.