Larry Driskill

I should be working, or at least taking a nap, but here I am playing on the web.

Right up there with the good things Cox has done for me, like making the TeeDee .049 for all those years, is the utility of their ubiquitous wrenches.

I have used them for years and have seen a couple of different styles. I like the ones with the full circle end for removing the glow head.

I have found, however, that the basic wrench is a bit small to really get some torque on your victim and have made handles for some of mine.

Using the antique tool at the top of the second photo for inspiration, I added wooden handles to the wrenches by laminating up pieces of wood. This allows me to more easily twist the firewall off when trying to remove that stubborn head from an engine.

The right photo is is unequal time for Norvel.

hogflyer

I take it you're refering to the "Church Key"?

Hogflyer

Larry Driskill

Yes sir, 'must have been the church connection that made it truly inspirational.

And that particular "Key" is larger than most too. I suspect one could open several cases of adult beverages without getting a wrist cramp.

Have you seen any other versions of the Cox .049 wrench?

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Larry, nice job on the handles.

I don't think you posted this one:

lildiesel

I thought that was a tool for a Wen-Mac .049...

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

I'm speechless! Words elude me! I can't think of a thing to say! Awestruck I am!

Big Al-RCU

Heres another shot of the part no 1230 wrench (top) along with the part no 1530 (bottom).
al

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I wonder if the designer of the COX engine knew that someday there would be a world wide forum of men talking about his stamped sheetmetal wrenches? Kind of on the same subject, do you think ol' Abe Lincoln could have known that his likeness would be glued to the outboard wing tip of so many 100 mph C/L planes? The tools that LARRY displays look more like what you see if you take the museum tour at San Quentin, or maybe even eating utensils at Jeff Foxworthys' house?.

hogflyer

Here's a couple more - top is for .09, bottom for .049/.051.

Hogflyer

DICKEYBIRD

Here's one I use that matches the flats on the top of the cylinder (5/8 in) and WILL NOT bend or wear out like the Cox stamped steel one. It's half of an old Snap-On "tappet" wrench that was very thin to start with then ground down just enough to let it slide in with the glow plug on. I have one just like it for the .020's too, just smaller.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

You fellas have some really impressive tools - for part of the job. But I'm curious about what kind of pliers you grip the cylinders with while turning the plug out? I favor classic slip-joints, but I have a modern, offset jawed, spring-opening, plastic gripped pair from Sears with really deep, agressive teeth that get into those fins pretty durn good.

Ah, CP once again you have brought nostalgic sniffles to mine nostrils with your restrospective on penny tip weight. And that was back when pennies were manly, made from real metal, and had some weight to them. You could solder things to them, beat them into useful shapes, why I can't speculate on how many I've drilled 1/8-inch holes through. Ah, good times, good times.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Ray, did you know that it now costs more to mint a penny than what it is worth?. I always glue the coins on with the presidents' face up.........out of respect. I think you might be talking to some guys here who would have you tarred and feathered for gripping some rare #001 liner with pliers [X(] Those teeth marks in the fins increase cooling area.

Larry Driskill

Heat the tar and pluck the feathers . . .

Or the guilty party could chuck the evidence up and turn the extra "cooling area" off to hide the crime. More than likely there was too much fin area there from the beginning.

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

Gentlemen, gentlemen,

Do youse-all really think that I would abuse one of my beloved reedies with pliers? Pshaw, I was a joshin' with ya. Now I KNOW you know I would NEVER EVER desecrate my one of my TDs thusly. Certainly then I would treat my new favorites (reedies) with any less dignity.

Actually, when I saw the checkering (is that the correct term?) on one of those wrenches I remember my attempt at a quick version of something similar to increase the "grip" on a CL handle I had made for combat cuz those red plastic Hot Rocks could get slippery when sweaty. So, I clamped my handle and a coarse ******* file in my vice and squeezed pretty good. Yep I got nice, even dents in the wood. Alas, it was still slippery because the 'spikes' went IN instead of OUT (like real gun checkering). Looked pretty good though. I've sometimes wondered if I couldn't find another application for that technique. Any suggestions?

gcb

A serious answer is that for the very old Coxes we had two wrenches, one fit in the exhaust slots and the other on the plug. There are some wrenches that are close but not an exact fit, so be careful which wrench you use. The pic below shows some of the different types:

Us older guys used rolled-up Ambroid tubes.

George

Raymond LeFlyr

My Feedback: (2)

GCB,

I'd quote your quote but its just easier for me to just say; yes, and long ago Cox engines came with two wrenches which is why some of you (us) older CL mouse racers have bunches of the durn things - enough to "enhance".

But your mention of rolled up Ambroid tubes cause at least two of my synapses to rub together. Back when the model mags were 35-cents (50 maybe) there was an article in one that showed someone using empty glue tube tops to simulate glow engines (and provide nose weight). The author showed a sample airframe of a current FF champ model (maybe Spacer or Ramrod) scaled way down (8 - 10 inch span maybe) and made with 1/32 and 1/16 sheet. Well, since we didn't have the means to purchase the full size plans (let alone build many of the actual 'real' models), my flying buddies and I made our own little tube-top 'powered' models using the plans from the magazines - at the same size they were presented on one page. I don't remember trying to trim them to fly like 'real' HLGs. We just tried to get them to fly in a straight line for as far as possible - thus did we establish a 'winner'. Ah, good times, good times.

digital_trucker

Ambroid tubes cut into pieces make good balast weights too

Schu

My Feedback: (5)

I hold the cyl of a tough to remove glo- head w/ a pliers , BUT I use a thick piece of leather just the right size to go around the cyl and I never make a dent or anything on the fins. Try it - it works great and very cheap and easy ( just use a soft pc from an old shoe ).
The leather is always in my cox tool box.
Dale

gcb

Another idea someone posted awhile back...well, a LONG while back, is to drill a cylinder size hole in a piece of wood (like pine), slice it, then use it in a vise to hold the cylinder.

Glue tube tops: Some glues used diamond shaped screw eyes, which became push rod guides on CL planes also.

My first NEW engine was a Cox Space Bug Junior and I can't honestly remember whether it came with one or two wrenches.

George

Jim Thomerson

Here are two Cox 15 MKII Special wrenches. I did not notice they were left vs right handed until I took the picture.