slim_pkns

That receiver should work just fine for this or just about any other Guillow's flying model kit. I just happened to have a Berg - CastleCreations stamp receiver waiting for something like this project since a terrible mid-air collision with out my SIG Smith Miniplane *sniff, sniff*. The crash split the antenna wire at about the halfway mark so a little model like this for indoor flying won't be a problem but I didn't dare use it for a .40 or .60 glow model.

The landing gear aren't a problem. They get attached later. There are two pieces of wire that get bent to a pattern on the plan. It's basicly an X with legs and the wheels are attached. The trianglular stock basicly acts as shock absorbers. Maybe I can get a decent picture of it up tonight after this months indoor flyin.

I'm going to show the engine mount to the guys at the church gym we fly in tonight and get as many opinions and options as I can before moving on. If you guys are right, I don't know how to use a protractor. I thought I was relatively accurate but I brought everything with me so we'll see...

slim_pkns

I've been taking my time with this project and I've learned a lot. I solved my motor mounting problem by backing off on the right thrust angle a bit and mounting it off-center on the firewall. I ended up using about 2 degrees down and about 2 degrees right. I moved the mounting block way up and little to the left when looking at the nose to get it to exit out the cowl in the right place. It wasn't easy but I was able to finally get it to work. I used a lot of the re-stickable 3M glue stick glue to temporarily glue the motor in different places and add the cowl until I had it just right. Then used CA to permanently glue it in place. The motor is crewed into the mounting block with tiny wood screws. I already knew this model was going to need some nose weight so I wasn't worried about using screws for the motor mount.

I'm almost done and I hope to make my maiden flight with this model the first Monday of the new year. Right now I'm working on getting the landing gear glued on and I have a question about gluing metal wire to balsa.

I'm going to add a bit of wire to the landing gear struts on this Guillow's kit to reinforce it. I'm wondering what kind of glue I should use to attach the metal wire to the tissue and dope covered balsa. I'm guessing I can't use plastic model glue and I know the Titebond White and Wood glue isn't going to work. I don't really want to use CA because it seems to discolor a large area every time I try to use it. Should I use epoxy? Epoxy is really heavy but I've scoured the internet for info and it's the only consistent suggestion I've found. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Here's a couple of pics of the project at this stage....

Mr Cox

It is a bit tricky to glue metal, you could possibly try with some JB weld...

I really don't understand the construction though, how is it supposed to flex without breaking the balsa? []

Usually the base of the wire is attached rigidly inside the body during the building of the airframe, e.g. laminated between two sheets of balsa. The balsa of the landing gear can then be attached to the airframe but not the wire. Or, the balsa can be attached to the wire but not to the airframe.

Both these methods allows the landing gear to flex and it is used even on the lightest, rubber-powered, free-flight models...

build light

I hope this helps some. The wire is routed a bit different than most. I didn't have the plan so i went back to the fist page and enlarged that one best I could.

As to glueing that additional wire, just use Titebond or some kind of wood glue but you want to lay some tissue over it so that the tissue overlaps the wood. As if you were providing fiber glass cloth. I would use three pieces as you show the wire addition. one on the bottom of the fuse, and one down each length of wire as it goes down each LG fairing.

Robert

slim_pkns

I like the sound of that a lot more than using epoxy. I was also dwelling on how to get the dope to stick to the metal wire so the color would match. Thought about sanding it a bit first but I like your suggestion better. I can just dope over the tissue.

Thanks!

build light

Glad to be of any help at all!

Robert

gabe200

My Feedback: (21)

not to late to go glow

slim_pkns

Yes it is...

So here it is, near complete. The suggestion to glue the reinforcing wire with the Titebond white glue and cover it with some tissue and dope worked out great!

I struggled a bit with getting the metal wire landing gear to attach to the metal wire landing strut reinforcement I added. I ended up having to use a little epoxy to get the strength necessary to for taxiing and I assume landing (haven't flown it yet). I did a bit of taxiing last night at the indoor fly-in and haven't found a way to add a suitable tailwheel yet. Every time I taxied around I tore off the tail wheel assembly. I'm thinking of just going with a skid even though it won't be scale. I'd like to keep it as scale looking as possible but I just can't seem to find a suitable way to work it out.

I've found I have to add about 7 grams (1/4 oz.) to the nose to balance it. The only things left before maiden is to figure out a better tailwheel or skid assembly, velcro/secure the battery, glue the windshield on, balance it and make sure it tracks as straight as possible so I don't head to the wall on take-off.

WOOHOO!

build light

Looks good. You should put your windows in before you fly. More than one person has found that their plane just would not fly well till they did.

Robert

Mr Cox

Looks nice, I'm also almost done with my cub now but since I went glow then the maiden will have to wait until it get warmer and the grass grows taller...

That's a big prop on there, what size is that and what total weight did you get?

Mr Cox

No it's never too late for that. I'm hoping a Pee Wee will do the job on mine:

slim_pkns

build light: Absolutely! Yeah, I didn't intend on flying that night unless I could get it to taxi and make sure the landing gear stayed together. I took stuff with me to glue the window, secure the battery, and add weight for balance but since the tailwheel setup didn't make it past a few taxi attempts to ensure it would track straight, I haven't added it yet.

Mr Cox: I'm using a three-bladed GWS 5x3 prop. It would call for a larger two-bladed prop. If you look back through the build, you'll see a breakdown of the power-to-weight ratio of each prop with the motor/ESC/battery I'm using. I think it's going to turn out great but I don't have a final all-up-weight yet. I need to get it back on the triple beam now that it's 99% complete and doped. I believe it's about 4 1/2 ounces. After adding nose weight, I think it will end of right around 5 oz.

I'll post all up weight as soon as I visit my friend with the scale and try get some video clips soon!

slim_pkns

Well... During this months indoor fly-in, I attempted to maiden my Guillow's Piper Super Cub. I felt it was balanced and ready to go. Unfortunately, I tried to make the first flight indoors and in hindsight, I think it would have been best to wait for a no wind day and hand launch it.

It left the floor at the far end of the church gymnasium and when trying to make the first turn, it torque rolled and nosed in hard. I think I might have been able to recover if it hadn't been indoors where the ceiling and walls needed to be avoided.

I am really surprised that the damage wasn't so bad. The wings broke off at the cabin which was completely destroyed but was perfect because the wings themselves remain perfect. The nose was crushed at the firewall and up to second fuselage formers but the cowling itself remains perfect as well. It's definitely repairable and eventually I'll get it back together. I just don't know if I will continue to try to make it electric or just static.

This has been a HUGE learning experience for me. Both in building, conversion to electric, and attempting to fly indoors. Thanks for everyones help and I hope this helps someone else who will successfully convert the Guillow's #303 Piper Super Cub to electric RC.