Well thanks Hook,

I'd like to bask in the glory of it but there wasn't too much rocket science behind it. CF laminated balsa is very cool and stiff but also a little pricey (well, CF is). If you are going to produce some for formers or some such, then by all means, might as well make a servo tray while you're at it. Otherwise, good old fashioned hardwood (basswood or ply) does the trick. Provided the try is properly supported, I find that 1/16" ply is fine but if I had more of it, I might use 1/8" lite ply on larger models. The lite ply can be a little dangerous though as it can "chip". I made the frame for this model with 1/16" ply and then, where the servo's go, I back up the tray (above or below as required) with some 1/8" ply or square hardwood stock. Even if using 1/8" ply, I find it is not thick enough to adequately capture the servo screws.

I am still on a search for the ultimate way to mount an elevator servo sideways though in the absence of a purpose built side mount servo. Putting the servo on it's side is really the way to go in my opinion with forked split elevators - almost completely linear motion is transferred to them. I often find that there is not enough space between the fuse centerline and side to accommodate a standard size servo and put the output on the centerline. With classics, I've found that I need to use low profile aileron type servos so they will fit.

I'd say go with the 1/8" stuff on your TT and remove material where not needed - more effective on a 60 size model.

David.