ORIGINAL: Campgems

I'll agree with Guy. Maybe because I've done a lot of hard silver soldering. If you get some ''hard'' silver solder, you are good for over 1000F before the solder starts to go plastic, it melts at around 1350F and flows at 1475F. You have to get it to the flow temp before it works. IT turns to water at that point and goes to the heat. Lots of borax flux because if the metal starts to oxidize from the heat, you are done soldering until you get back to bright metal. The flux is as important as the solder. I would recommend the paste flux, you can get more of it on the piece. Don't forget to flux the solder also. The flux will foam up and then melt back down to a liquid. Just past this point is where the solder will start to melt and then flow. Place small snips of solder along the joint. When the solder starts to flow, it will go to the heat, so you use the torch as your paint brush to pull the solder where you what it. Last, it will not fill gaps. You need a good fit before you start to solder. This is true for brazing also, but you can build a bridge with brazing rod. You can't with silver solder.

Don.