ORIGINAL: Rodney
I have never had a Hog Bipe but after having 7 Aeromasters, 3 1/4 scale Moths, about 5 other large 1/4 scale bipes and many smaller ones, I have found that all flew best with the upper wing at about 1.5 degrees LESS angle of attack than the lower wing was set at. All also required about 3 to 5 degrees down thrust and about 3 degrees right thrust to track well. I did a lot of experimenting with the relative angles between the upper and lower wings and always wound up with the upper wing at a lower angle of attack than the lower wing was set at. When you build your model, I'd suggest you plan it so that you can do a bit of experimenting with this relationship and you will find that just minor changes can make a huge difference in how well the plane tracks and maneuvers. It can become quite a chore to change the relative angles for experimentation unless you plan ahead in the construction as the interplane struts and cabanes can become difficult to change.
I'm with Rodney on the negative incidence of the upper wing relative to the lower wing. I routinely use 1 degree on all my bipes (these include the HB, a Giant Aeromaster and two WW I's from Flair and BUSA). I also use 2 degrees left and 2 degrees downthrust. I've found this setup to work 'right off the board' for these bipes
As someone mentioned, WWI bipes with their generally lower wing loading and higher drag don't land like the HB. They require a bit of power and a nice nose level or slightly nose down attitude just prior to the flair. The HB pretty much lands like a low wing sport plane and that's really the beauty of it. Just get a good glide angle on final at a hair of power, cut the throttle as she crosses the threshold and grease her in.
Adjust your gal until you get her right and you'll have a friend you can fly under almost any conditions. Best of luck!