Sounds like, after 5+ decades in the sport, I need to "modernize" and try that juice. What, with the modern graphics programs & printers, I already do all my own graphics and decals for planes and most of them come out pretty good once I've put them on the Testors water-decal papers (ooooooooooooooo, he does his own decals.... ) .

((sorry - brain fart))

Ye gads! Four years in the hobby and you're doing something like the Merlyn - I'm way beyond being totally impressed. You're much braver than I am, I've always been quite conservative in my projects/flying.

You're right - dope finishes are definitely for the powered planes. Last time I saw dope on a glider was way back in the 1970's and I think that was something akin to a Gentle Lady that had it - regular light-weight tissue and a couple coats of 50/50-thinned clear. They don't hold up well, or very long. More substantial finishes went on the larger (larger at that time, we're talking .40-size birds here) planes and they were either silk or silkspan with a half-dozen or so coats. I've still got several CL birds (.35-.45 engines) with 1980's covering jobs on them, that fly regularly and still look pretty good. They're silk-covered. Silkspan is more of a heavy tissue paper and it doesn't hold up as long before cracking/tearing from age - 10-15 years is about it most of the time. This new (!) (only been around since Alexander crossed the mountains) Koverite-type stuff is outstandingly tough and will hold up pretty much forever - or so they say.

Presently though, monokote is definitely the best/easiest general purpose covering for most planes that I've found out about - no doubt about that. My own DeBolt Champ is monokote covered but I'm thinking about re-doing her with super coverite so she looks more like she would have in the 50's-60's, when the type first took to the air.

Hey! Never apologize for spending time thinking about what you're going to do - that's a sign of someone who knows what he's doing. I do a lot of woodworking and my dad always drummed into me that it's best to measure twice (or more) and cut once. That rule extends into these planes too. These critters are ALL rather high-tech machines, doesn't matter whether they're rubber-powered indoor duration types or something like your Merlyn. They've gotta FLY, and fly right - the first time!! Thinking, planning, re-thinking, re-drawing - that's what makes planes fly right the first time. Besides, there are enough gremlins out there already. The more planning you do, the fewer of them that ever show up.

BTW, I definitely want to be there when you take her out the first time (yeah, I'll hold the camera) - I wanna see this critter grab air and go!!

Ah, electric power - love it! Probably won't ever do it myself, would take a total re-tool of my moldy ol' mind and I don't think I'd ever really be able to get into it, but I can definitely appreciate its uses and advantages. The work you did on that shaft - very good. Very good indeed! I like your idea of CA'ing the balsa on top so the folding prop doesn't chew into it - definitely the way to go and it won't add enough weight to talk about. Pretty cool with the interchangeable noses too - I like that.

Just curiosity here, 4-40 for the firewall screws? That 17" prop's definitely going to need a bit of holding power to keep everything together - 1700 watts & 17" is a LOT of pulling power.

Hey man, press on pressing on! Can't wait to see how all this comes out.

Dave