Lets see if I can remember. Just paint the adhesive (sig stix-it or balsa-loc) around the perimeter, no need to do the whole frame. The normal way to stick it down is with an iron. I found another way is to use acetone with a small cheap paint brush, something like you find in a cheap kids watercolor kit. Just lay the koveral down, use something to hold the cloth down (a dowel or whatever) while you dab with the acetone, work your way along the adhesive line. Acetone reactivates the adhesive, takes a couple of seconds and its fastened. What I discovered the hard way was to NOT shrink all of the koverall tight next. Just remove any big wrinkles but dont let it pull on edges you've stuck down. Next I used dope along the perimeter to secure it better, about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, 3 coats. NOW shrink it tight, then dope the rest of it, 3 coats. If you shrink tight first then dope everything including the edges, they sometimes pull loose.
Others have solved this problem by using polyurethane instead of dope. I havent done this but it sounds like a viable option. Maybe someone else will speak up about it.
The great thing about koverall is its shrinkability. You can make it tight as a drum. Just make sure your structure is strong enough to take it. Most bigger planes have no trouble. I havent been adding anything to act as weave filler at this stage but many have suggested you do. Some use talc powder mixed with the overall coats. I think its a good idea. Otherwise, you end up using a lot of primer. I used warbirdcolors (brand name) paints for primer and base coat colors on my NE-1 cub. I'm about to add the vinyl decals, then clear coat it.
Edwin

I forgot to add that I thin the dope with acetone. Not all acetone is the same. The brand from Lowes (think its Crown) is too hot when mixed with dope. It turns to cottage cheese. I use the brand from Home Depot, seems about right when I mix it.
Edwin