I have a stripped Pica Waco 60 size I've been wanting to finish and the paint/dope/cloth is still on some solid surfaces like in the joints of the tail, etc. Do I use a paint stripper or what else to get the rest off?
Thanks,
Jim

Acetone applied with a small cheap paint brush. Use tweezers to pull it up as you dab the acetone on it. I've used it on sig stix-it and dope on koverall. Should work on dope and silk too. I'll be doing this process on a old Nosen Mulligan covered in silk. I'll recover it in Koverall.
Edwin

Thanks, acetone I was trying to think of that when I posted. Now if I just knew how to use Koverall I'd be all set. Where's the best description on how to use it? I've read a few but now in a while.

Thanks,
Jim

Lets see if I can remember. Just paint the adhesive (sig stix-it or balsa-loc) around the perimeter, no need to do the whole frame. The normal way to stick it down is with an iron. I found another way is to use acetone with a small cheap paint brush, something like you find in a cheap kids watercolor kit. Just lay the koveral down, use something to hold the cloth down (a dowel or whatever) while you dab with the acetone, work your way along the adhesive line. Acetone reactivates the adhesive, takes a couple of seconds and its fastened. What I discovered the hard way was to NOT shrink all of the koverall tight next. Just remove any big wrinkles but dont let it pull on edges you've stuck down. Next I used dope along the perimeter to secure it better, about 1/4" to 1/2" wide, 3 coats. NOW shrink it tight, then dope the rest of it, 3 coats. If you shrink tight first then dope everything including the edges, they sometimes pull loose.
Others have solved this problem by using polyurethane instead of dope. I havent done this but it sounds like a viable option. Maybe someone else will speak up about it.
The great thing about koverall is its shrinkability. You can make it tight as a drum. Just make sure your structure is strong enough to take it. Most bigger planes have no trouble. I havent been adding anything to act as weave filler at this stage but many have suggested you do. Some use talc powder mixed with the overall coats. I think its a good idea. Otherwise, you end up using a lot of primer. I used warbirdcolors (brand name) paints for primer and base coat colors on my NE-1 cub. I'm about to add the vinyl decals, then clear coat it.
Edwin

I forgot to add that I thin the dope with acetone. Not all acetone is the same. The brand from Lowes (think its Crown) is too hot when mixed with dope. It turns to cottage cheese. I use the brand from Home Depot, seems about right when I mix it.
Edwin

If you want to add weave filler to your poly or dope make sure it is talc not corn starch.  Johnson& Johnson has two bayby powders - one with talc and one with corn starch.  The corn starch will get guey - not good.