Ameya, it appears from the video, that you have the original version of the kit, where the removeable canopy ends at the front of the wing. On many of those, the aluminum wing tube is a little too long, and needs about 6-10 mm removed from the tube's length so that the wings can be right against the fuselage with no extra force required. It is better that the tube be too short than too long. If you do not put the wing bolts in, can you push both wings against the fuselage with light force or is there a gap? I know that my original version needed the wing tube shorter by ~8mm in order to seat the wing without bending the fuselage sides when tightening the wing bolts. My wing tube is now 485mm long.
You may want to check that.
Second idea: if you put the aluminum wing tube into just one wing and support the wing between your knees while seated (knees against the spar to avoid damage to ribs), can you feel the wing tube looseness at all? The tube should be snug, not rattle or move freely. The heavy engine and epoxy reinforcements that you are using + 10g manouvers may have loosened the attachment of the matching tube inside the wing or worn the fit between the aluminum and matching cardboard tube in the wing. This is the most likely source of any jinking that you feel. The wing can be held on with just one bolt and still shouldn't jink if the tubes in the wing are firmly mounted and the clearance between wing socket and aluminum tube is nice and tight.
There were some posts back in 2009 on this thread showing that the shear webs above and below the wing tube socket(visible thru wing root access holes) had their grain going the wrong way. The shear webs between spars normally have vertical grain orientation for best effectiveness. That being said, I think that these pieces are fine as is- since they are only 6mm thick between the wing tube and spar. Wing tubes interrupt the shear web, and become part of the shear webbing in these tube-and-socket designs. Its too bad that Phoenix didn't use a proper phenolic wing socket here- because phenolic is much stiffer and would function better as part of the wing's shear webbing.

I am flying ~150 flights at 3.1 kg and have not seen severe jinking yet on my Phoenix Extra. If I put one wing held flat on the floor, top side down, and install the wing tube, I get 1mm vertical free play at the free end of the tube when it is fully engaged in the (crappy cardboard) wing socket. Certainly looser than when I first got the plane, but acceptable IMHO. That 1mm at 458mm is only 0.1 degrees of angle.

If you decide to dig into the wing at all, by removing the covering, you may want to buy new wing tubes. There are some very nice and light ones available as a set that probably use thinner & stronger aluminum or even carbon fiber elements. This tube from Phoenix weighs 2.6 oz or 70g. At TNT landing gear (www.tntlandinggear.com) you can get a Carbon Fiber wing tube that is twice as long and weighs less! In other words, their 30" 1.7 oz tube (WTC-750) would weigh just 1.08 oz (32.5g) at 485mm long- a 40g "bolt on" weight savings. They also sell the matching phenolic socket tube SOP-750-C. This would add up to $53. Or, for $20 you could get their aluminum & phenolic socket Ø3/4" x 24" long set: http://www.tntlandinggear.com/store/shop/wing_tubes.htm 24" WT-274 / WT-275
My tube measures 0.750" (exactly 3/4") on the OD. Actually it measures 0.748-0.752" as you rotate it, as it is slightly out of round due to some post crash straigtening!

Now you have ME "thinking of jinking", Ameya. That's a new word for me but I understand your description. I am going to try a layer of thin metallic aluminum tape (for furnace ducting, the good stuff not "Duck tape") to tighten my wing tube to socket clearance a bit. Just a strip at the inboard and outboard bearing points in the wing should do it. If I do too much here, I may get the tube stuck- it does need a tiny bit of clearance for assembly.