I did some monokoting on my model as well. I used scrap Topflite kote I had left from a previous build. The LHS has old Oracover and it seperates (the pigment and clear polyester) after ironing so I gave up on using the stock they have. My problem is that, like the stuff the LHS has in stock, the kote on the model is also delaminating. I really dont know how long it will last and what I am going to do subsequently. The one on the model is also Oracover, by the way.

Anyway, the technique I use when covening open bays is to set my iron to about 75-80% of the dial, let it warm up and then tack down everything, staring with one end first and then strech and then tack down the other. Then I iron down the entire piece starting from one end and move to the other end on the kote. Once the entire wooden parts are ironed down, I then use the iron itself set to max or a heat gun and shrink the part in between the bays. I use the same technique for sheeting. If you get wrinkles, heat the same gently with a heatgun or the iron, pat wown by hand using a glove or just some cotton cloth between the hand and cover so as not to get burnt and then let it cool on its own. Wrinkles go away automatically this way. Dont over do it as covering usually splits at the folds. If you have air bubbles between the sheeting and covering, use a safety pin or needle to poke a hole in one corner and iron down towards that corner from the opposite side of the bubble so that the air escapes through the hole

I do have a problem with my preironed covering coming off with time. Does gas engine exhaust have a negative effect on monokote?

Regarding the flaperon issue, my observation is you need to keep some speed on approach and this airplane pretty much lands itself. Mine is heavy, nearly 4kg (9lb) though, I am not using flaps

Ameyam