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Old 05-06-2012 | 05:49 PM
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ameyam
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Default Engine mounting and pushrod setup

This is a replicate post from the ARF section because I didnt get a reply there

1) Trying to install a DLE20 on a GP 90-120 adjustable mount. Its about 2mm too narrow and a larger mount will require surgery on the firewall. Cant make it wider because that would require to drill out the interlocking tabs on the back of the mount, so it wouldnt be secure enough. Should I simply grind / sand 2mm each side off the beams? The mounting holes seem to be further inside the beam so that wouldnt be an issue. Will the mount retain sufficient strength after this?

2) The manual requires you to solder one end clevis. I dont know how to solder or have the tools, but I do have Sullivan SS 4-40 full threaded pushrods and Dubro spring steel clevises which I had bought for ease of adjustment. I am also using Dubro large scale black horns on all surfaces.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD875&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD937&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV03&P=7

Now, some senior modellers told me that I shouldnt use the full threaded rods as they are prone to corrosion due to humid weather and snapping due to the threading reducing cross-section area. Was wondering- this is stainless steel, should be more resistant to corrosion and stronger than standard MS pushrod, shouldnt it? Also, will this this pushrods really snap?. I was planning to cover the unused threads with oil paint or sleeve with silicon tubing after I am done adjusting to protect from the environment. I have one side threaded rods as well but putting Z-bends are difficult because I am using the outermost hole on the servo (see pic) which will need to be enlarged for the pushrod and I dont think its strong enough. So should I use the full threaded ones?

Ameyam
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