Luchnia I have no issue at all with soldering a clevis and I would certainly not be worried about the security of such. The point is I virtually never anymore do pushrods with double ended clevis and therefore no worry about turning the pushrod into a big turnbuckle and there is no need to deadend one of the clevis, I never have two clevis.

What I use these days for all the ships that utilize the 2/56 rod ends for the pushrods (and thats most right up to the ninety sized stuff) is Carbon Fibre rod and at the control surface there will be a threaded rod end inserted to the rod with a clevis (this allows adjustment without disassembly of the wing) at the other end will be a short (several inchs0 of 2/56 rod end without threads but a formes Z bend. My rods never have any bend at all in the rod ends I keep the pushrods dead straight. The outlet holes in fuselages are position by me to allow this not neccessarily where some kit or arf possitioned the outlets.

Pushrods with bends in the wire ends no matter what will cause the wet noodle pushrod syndrome. Now I do not use carbon fibre rods from the normal suppliers for my 2/56 rod ends Instead I use the difficult to find rod that is a perfect slip fit for the 2/56 rod end wire. It comes from Darrol Cady (this is searchable to find them) a cottage industry supplier to the pylon racing industry.

These wires are increditably easy to do even over the larger carbon rods or conventional pushrods. At the wire end at the servo (these wire ends are keept short) the Z bend is bent in before assembly wire has several inchs of radial notchs cut in the wire and this provides pockets perfect for the epoxy when it is slipped in the CF rod. But not glued now. Next the the wire end with the clevis threads is notched the same and this end is glued. now the entire rod is inserted into possition and the clevis is installed on the control surface at mid thread. Up front at the servo the the wire end is inserted into the CF rod and wiht radio on at neutral and the servo arm cross ways or wherever you want it the control is held neutral and a sharpie mark is made on the wire at the end of the CF rod. This wire in that section already has the radial notchs and the carbon is slipped off, epoxi is applied reinserted and the control set neutral. Bingo when set you have a perfect length and adjusted stiff pushrod.

This set up can be done much faster than most other types for fuselage rods and far stiffer as well as very easy to do. Not so easy to describe in print. I introduced my LHS to this method and connected him with Darrol Cady so he can supply the rods and now the vast majority are using this system here locally and not just pylon racers actually who are benefiting the most are the fellow with trainers.

Now as I suggested in other threads to the OP for now stick to the plans on your Kadet and use a Z bend up front and there is no need to solder. Later if you like with subsiquient airplanes do consider the Cf rods as I have described if you like.

John


This is a picture of a threaded rod ready to glue into the CF rod. The radial notchs are cut in just seconds by holding aginst the corner of a stone in a bench grinder and rotating as you go. This short (just a few inchs) wire will either have the 2.56 threads or a premade Z bend.