ORIGINAL: Baron Fel
Rewire most of the tank and then program the unit. "Wow" and "FAR" is aunderstatement.<div></div><div>Baron</div>
Totally an uninformed opinion without you knowing any details on what is, or what might be necessary to install a Clark board.
You don't have to rewire <u>
most</u> the tank or program the board if the factory defaults of the board work for your setup. But at least the board itself has <u>
many</u> options to choose from & program if you want to customize it's functionality, & thank goodness it's not just the same old boring & basic battle system Heng Long & the other branded HL versions still provide.
Programming the Tx to your liking & possibly having to switch the Rx cables to get things just right, isn't only something you might have to deal with when installing a Clark board either, that can happen with any new electronics board where you're adding in a 3rd party 2.4GHz Tx/Rx system.
So let's look at how "Wow" & "FAR" is an understatement (according to you), when it comes to describing all the hard work someone must do because the board is so FAR from being 100% plug & play.
Using the original cables from my HL IR tanks ...
- Both motors plug right in. ( CN6 & CN7 )
- The Volume Level plugs right in. ( CN4 )
- The Speaker plugs right in. ( CN5 )
- The On/Off switch plugs right in. ( CN1 )
- The Smoker plugs right in. ( CN10 )
- The Smoker switch plugs right in. ( CN11 )
- The Turret Traverse, Gun Elevation, Main Gun Fire, Machine Gun Fire, Headlight all work with just plugging in the HL cable in. ( CN9 )
- The HL IR receiver (apple) port will work if just plugged in. ( CN2 )
What I did have to do is
- Take the IR LED wires from the HL turret connection & run them down to connect them to the J1 IR port on the board to fire the IR signal.
- Take the Flash LED wires from the turret connection & run them down to the J3 Flash port on the board to fire the barrel flash.
- Cut the common positive wire shared between the Gun Elevation & Gun Barrel Recoil motor
- And if you want to have gun barrel recoil, you have to rewire the stock recoil unit back up, or add a servo (100% better & worth it anyway on any HL tank) & use the Real recoil servo port.
Seems to me that the plug & play greatly outweighs the non-plug & play aspects. The only even slightly difficult part, in all the above non-plug & play steps that I have encountered, was to get good recoil working, & even that wasn't that bad for someone like myself, who has never added a servo to anything!!!
So please, tell me how Wow & FAR is an understatement, & list those "
most" things that need to be rewired again, this way I can go back over my 6 boards & make sure I got everything right!
~ Craig ~