WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
The King Tiger layout has a custom aluminum frame with a front and back bulkhead. The front bulkhead separates the 480 cans and Mato gears from the remainder of the interior. The back bulkhead provides not only the structural rigidity that the Heng Long is lacking (especially when the battery box is removed), but the mounting point for the Control Panel that houses the switches and charge ports.
A word of warning, the Control Panel was neat to build - except I forgot that the turret would interfere with the access cover.
I mounted the two 5000 may batteries toward the front of the KT to keep the tank balanced.

WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
I used a heat sink from a broken X BOX that my son had and I cut it down and mounted it for additional heat dissipation from the Super Smoker. The Super Smoker puts out a lot of heat and in the Phoenix area, heat can be a most challenging issue.......
The fuse box and 10 amp fuse is also mounted on the top rail of the KT. I have had several issues with blowing the 10 amp fuse, but I am hesitant to go with the next size up which is a 15 amp fuse. There was a Spirited discussion on another post about how fuses work.

WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
The Control Panel is an aluminum cut panel mounted on the back cross brace with the Super Smoker mounted underneath it. Make certain that the bottom of the panel is sprayed with a insulating material so you do not have a short.

WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
A key issue for me in wiring is to properly mark ALL WIRES.
I bought a Home Depot vinyl printer that is great. To mark the wires (servo lead wiring), I cut a piece of styrene to use as a backer, print the label and I then cut a slightly larger piece of clear heat shrink tubing. By carefully placing the styrene board and the heat shrink (sometimes I have to use a dab of glue to hold it) and applying heat, it makes for a very durable and professional lable.

WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
When I started this project, I have never built a tank before (outside of crashing helicopters, I hadn't build a model in 20 years). A key issue was what type of wiring I was going to use.
After reading about wire sizes, resistance, etc., I decided to use a quality servo wire for all the wiring except for the batteries and fuse block where I used a heavier gauge wire along with Deans Connectors.
Hanson Hobbies has a great selection of all sorts of connectors.
After ruining (many) connections, I finally found a process that worked for me.
1)Make your label AND APPLY it before you start the servo leads and connector.
2)Separate the wires by about 1",
3)Cut the end of each servo wire by about 1/8" -,
4)Use the correct servo end, place it in your servo crimper and let the insulation on the wire slightly enter the end of the connector and crimp hard,
5)Place the servo connector Upright and carefully solder the end (make certain that the solder does not flow Up into the connector's end),

Man... all the neat, sweet looking wiring here and electrical positioning makes my humble interior work look inferior.


Just no water sports with it! Very nice work!














~ Jeff

WIRING PART 1 (Custom Application)
Make certain the Servo Connectors are wired correctly.
With the plastic servo housing that has the connector tab "openings" facing up, slide each connector up and into the housing.
Make certain that you use the same wiring schema.
I use SIGNAL, POWER and NEGATIVE.
If you are wiring for a simple power run, you can still use the servo housing, but skip the first section that would normally house the SIGNAL lead and insert the POWER and then NEGATIVE lead.
By making the first servo connection "female", you can make the attaching servo connection by using the "male" ends and slide in the larger plastic housing. You can directly label these types of connections.

Thanks! It's my first wiring job.
Okay, it's my first tank. Probably my third try at wiring it.
I thought to put it into another thread, but I want to illustrate how the Clarke TK20 works on a custom install that is not plug and play. Part 2 will be the connections going into the TK20.
tjs

CLARKE TK20 LOST CONNECTION TO RX(?)
I finally have teh wiring all buttoned up, servo recoil (re)built, servo elevation motor functioning and all is good.
Except:
1)Don't place your on/off switch under the back engine lid which is under the turret because
2)In running the KT with the TK20 and Spectrum TX/RX, I have lost connection to the TK20 several times when I fire the cannon shot.
Has anyone had a lost of connection as between the TK20 and RX?
My KT will just sit there running with sound and smoke going, but no controls functioning (BATTERIES ARE FULLY CHARGED) until I lift the top hull and manually disconnect (ie., don't place your master switch under the engine lid).
Thanks for looking
tjs

When this happens, just try slightly jiggling the Rx connection wire plugs on the receiver side a bit & see if that gets your signal back.

~ Craig ~

Thanks Craig!
I'll give that a try. Might be as simple as a loose connection that the recoil/cannon function is setting off.
tjs

Tsull
I put my switches under the rear hatch as well. I am going to use a magnetic relay wired to a small button battery or two that will be directly in line with the turret motor. Take a magnet hit the relay and it should fire the button cells to the turret motor with enougth of a charge to move it 90 deg or so.
I am going to put all this at the back of the turret because of the huge amount of space there. Should solve the problem of the door being stuck closed.
freaky

That's a really good idea. I'm going to have to try something like that.
Don't suppose you have a King Tiger 3:1 Mato gear set and can overnight it to Scottsdale, AZ??
Yep, snapped mine with 2 days to the KT's first DAK battle.....
tjs

any chance you guys can capture the clark site notes and put them on here?.....seems aol is blocking the links.

mustclime try using firefox, I use that all the time and never have problems on any site.

Cheers
Wade

I can do a screen capture tomorrow with Clarke's approval.
?
tjs

Herman showed me his new Clark board for his D-D Sherman at the Danville battle last weekend. I am intrigued by the miniturization compared to the Tamiya electronics.

<u>Questions about the Clark board:</u>

1) Are the cooling fans pictured above absolutely necessary for this unit to work properly? Because this board would be perfect for making battle-ready small vehicles, such as Stuart, Puma or Lynx, so it seems that some of the space-savings of this board would be lost if fans were required.

2) I use a trigger button, not the joystick, to fire the main gun. Will it easy for us to connect our fire button wires to this board?

3) Over the years, friends have mailed faulty MF/TBUs to Tamiya USA for repair or replacement. What kind of support is available for the Clark unit?


Thanks! -Dana

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Those fans should not be needed. We battle in Phoenix where it can get hot and I originally built the fan system for a RX18 installation. However, they sure cool down the internals and electronics never like the heat.
Tjs

Hi Dana,

I think the fan is not necessary.I have an uncooled TK20E on a heavy HL Tiger 2. The tank is filled with bolts and lead weights, such that the overall weight amounts to about 13 kg. I'm driving on my carpet but have not yet blown this board. I will post a video when I can to showi the tank weight and tank running around.

cheers,
Rey

OK You guyz are fun!

I am expecting my 1st Clark board soon and can not wait to hook it all up! At the same time I scored big time off of local
CraigsList ......A Spektrum DX6 ( standard model ) WITH 2 AR6000receivers for 50.00 bucks!!! In the box with
charger and instruction book! The guy is a BIG Helo fan and all his helo's require 8 channels min. It was used only twice
....less then 4 flights each helo WOW!!!!!

( insert ...Napoleon Dymamite here ) "LUCK,,,EEEE" LOL

I fried my Heng Long brains months ago with that and being un employed most of 2012 did not help
matters at all....so mein Tiger has been in the closet sadly boxed up for a long time.....So excited to be back
in the turret!

Here is my modifed Tamiya recoil and 35mm camera flash system.

The entire Turret top is held in place with strong magnets so all the flash, barrel motor etc are mounted, velcro and snapped
in place on the turrent floor so and all tech items can be quicklyrepaired, changed out and removed in the field!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFhu3PfAGF0

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Has anyone got the recoil servo to change directon of rotation. [email protected]
Darryl

Yes, on my one TK20E-RU board I did flip the direction on the MG90s servo I was using, &amp; it worked fine.


~ Craig ~

I'll like to share a small tutorial section I made with photos for those who are interested.<div>Some parts are supplied by me and therefore not found when you buy them yourselves.</div><div>
</div><div>E.g: L-bracket and steel wires.</div><div>
</div><div>Nonetheless, I hope this helps some of us who are having a hard time with the installation.</div><div>
</div><div>Installation is done based on a stock heng long panzer iv IR,S&amp;S.</div><div>Servo elevations and servo recoil included.</div><div>
</div><div><span style="font-family: '.HelveticaNeueUI'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 19px; white-space: nowrap; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); ">http://gassembly.wordpress.com/2013/02/14/how-to-install-the-tk22-board-on-a-stock-heng-long-tank/</span></div>