Here's the straight p00p on Enya SS .40's. First, I have to say I love 'em... When I started, they were the cheap engines, which was all I could afford. I ended up with 2 very high-time engines that were well-trained.

I only used a chicken stick. Do NOT use your hand, though I did use a heavy hardware-store leather glove with happiness. I can show you the scars on the outside of my middle finger from those danged APC props. Too much fuel - engine locks...hand keeps going. Next you're gonna have blood all over your plane and radio

The Enya's take a LONG time to settle in - like a flying season, if you're a casual flyer like me. I like 'em when they run RIGHT - and the transition from idle or mid-range to full-throttle is difficult to set initially on the Enya's. They're not, however, particularly sensitive to glowplug brands or heats.

Settings: Needle valve out 1.5 or so turns - 2 turns is OK, too, when you're initially trying to figure the engine out...it'll start.

Idle stop: While looking down into the carb throat, with the radio on and the throttle pulled back all the way and the throttle trim DOWN all the way, screw the idle stop until the carb barrel JUST closes. It should be completely closed, but that's all. Use your throttle trim, now, to 'crack' the carb open - if it doesn't, you'll have no idle on the trim. 1/2 throttle trim should be OK to keep it running once you've got it tweaked. (This allowed me, when flying on floats with no retrieval boat, to use full throttle trim to bump the idle up and give me some insurance against a flame-out).

Idle mix: This is an airbleed - to start with, at least half of the airbleed should be covered by the screw - maybe a little more, leaving only a small hole for the air to bleed through at idle. This is the screw you'll mess with when you're trying to get it to run right all the time and transition properly...

To start - you've already learned the hard way that it doesn't want all that much fuel. My drill was to, with no plug lighter, choke the carb (you can plug the exhaust, too, but I did the carb), turn the prop through in running direction until fuel was sucked up TO the carb - not INTO it. The fuel would just touch the carb...OK, maybe a wee bit more, like a 1/4 turn on the prop, but NO more than that. My engines were 'trained' to start at about 1/3 throttle - I don't know if it was just me or what, but that always worked.

Radio on, open the throttle half-way or so, put the lighter on, and flip. It should start in a couple flips. If not, check your fuel line and make sure it's still full of fuel. If it's not, you, by rights, should figure out why not, which means going back to the pits. If you're me, however, and the line has emptied or drained back a little, you'll simply choke, turn the engine a bit (maybe a little more to get more of a prime in it) and keep flipping. Too much fuel will either lock the engine (looking ruefully at my cut fingers) or cause it to (SURPRISE!) run backwards..... If you're patient, by the way, you can use the throttle stick sometimes to reverse the engine - worst case, you'll have to flip it again. If it's running backwards, kill it with the radio (closing the idle or whastever works - don't stick it in the dirt) and DON'T prime - just FLIP (with the plug lighter on, of course).

By the way, nothing beats backyard practice with an engine. I'm a firm believer in test stands or at minimum, running the engine on the plane.

Once it runs, tweak the high-speed needle until it's happy - a pinch of the fuel line should result in a very minor and momentary increase in RPM before it dies (if you held the line pinched). THEN set it up to idle happily...don't worry about the transition from idle to full or anything...just get it to idle. Check your settings...ust play with it. The transition is usually a function of the idle bleed, and it's usually too rich - what happens is the engine loads up a little, then when you give it full-throttle, it just dies.....

Patience is a virtue.......'specially when you're poverty-stricken