Hehe.. fun talking points here for sure.

Thick symmetrical wings don't create any more lift than thin, but they do create more parasitic drag. Depending upon the airfoil chosen, they can also increase induced drag. Sometimes this is desirable, sometimes not.

Sharp leading edges do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to the pitch sensitivity of a wing section. It does lower the parasitic drag SLIGHTLY, but it's primary benefit is a sharper leading edge radius will cause airflow to separate more quickly than a blunt radius. That's it.

Heavy is NEVER better. A heavier airplane will be slower to bounce around in the wind, but once moving, that inertia then works against you taking longer to damp that movement.

A 0-0-0 airplane will always fly with the fuselage and tail low relative to the direction of a flight, assuming the wing section is symmetrical. Simple reason being is that a wing section requires angle of attack to generate lift.

As for SSS causing your airplane to roll more quickly to the right.. Torque should be working for you when rolling to the left, allowing the airplane to roll more quickly left than right. The Sopwith Camel was a perfect example of this, albeit reversed since its engine turned CW when viewed from the front. It would roll (and turn) VERY quickly to the right, but was TERRIBLE rolling and turning left as a result of torque and gyroscopic precession.

Thrust arrangements in the engine generally control what the airplane does in an unloaded state, such as in a vertical upline, HOWEVER, there are caveats to this as well. A thrust line of 0-0 works just fine IF your airplane never changes speed in up lines from its speed in a static level flight state. If your airplane slows down though, then the forces at work in balanced 1G flight, begin to cause issues in the vertical. There is no magic bullet that will work with all force arrangements when it comes to thrust settings. For any given design, there will be differences. I've never put any down thrust into a mid-wing, mid-stab airplane. For my 46% Ultimate Bipe, I needed UP thrust. Same for my original 35% Cap 232 which had a high thrust line relative to the wing, with a high stab. It required 1.5 degree of up thrust to draw straight up lines.

My basic rules have been, Thrust controls up lines, Trim controls down lines. Bryan is dead on the money though when he says that changing one thing will always affect other things. That's absolutely true. This is why it's so important to make ONE CHANGE AT A TIME, and then re-test.