Yes. labor intensive it is, however you will be very proud when you get to the field with it. The ultimate item is whatever are you finishing it with.
My suggestion is butyrate dope. In addition it can be easily repaired should you get a scratch. That is a good thing. I have used Buty over Nitrate, but age shows quickly and repairs become also labor intensive. A well applied Buty. dope model will last for many years.

Brodak is IMO the best available. It is a bit more pricey but it goes on and does better than any other that I have ever used and that use started back in the late '40s.
Brodak worked with Randolph to set the features of the dope for glow-powered model airplanes. Sig is - in my opinion - simply repackaged Randolph.

Butyrate dope over silk is second only to the best-ever paint which was K&B's original epoxy, followed by "Hobbypoxy". Thanks to all the idiots in the government around the time all the regulations were introduced removing everything of any worth. We children don't know how to take care of ourselves you know!

One of the early polyurethanes was also 100% nitro positive. (Old brain at rest, forget the name) It took 2 days to dry but nitro did not touch it. It was a paint store item. I was one of the first to test it on models and sold it through my Hobby Shop in Mt. Prospect, IL, also long gone. It was later distributed by a company for camo models. I still have some. I could go to barn and check name but it too is 20 years gone.
Red Devil was a fuel proof poly but that also fell to the axe of our benefactors, also on government payroll.

Brodak is about all that is left.

Your silkwork is fantastic. Give it a great finnish and fly it forever.