WOW!!! I should have selected a smaller plane. This is really labor instensive.

Pictures??? Oh forgot to say please

Chopper

I leave putting on silk to the wife. Much more fun!!!!

Terry

I think that the reason why I don't remember how much work silk and dope was is that I was looped on solvent vapors.

HEYYYYY, wait a cotton pickin minit....are you talking silking a wing or putting one nighties???? Or is that naughties???

You kids from down under just kill me with your innuendo....LOL

A painted silk finish when done right looks great. The downside is removing it for recover, even more work.

I have an old kit Aeromaster that I'm chipping away at getting the old silk, dope, and paint finish off so it can see more air time. I've about a third of the airplane yet to strip it could take a couple of years at the rate I'm working at it. Too many other fun things to do vs. stripping dope and silk.

OK Chopper Man
Here is a picture.

I don' see no stinkin' pick - chure!

HAY THAR! I tried it a second time and behold thar be a pick-yure.

Lookin' gooood!

Yes. labor intensive it is, however you will be very proud when you get to the field with it. The ultimate item is whatever are you finishing it with.
My suggestion is butyrate dope. In addition it can be easily repaired should you get a scratch. That is a good thing. I have used Buty over Nitrate, but age shows quickly and repairs become also labor intensive. A well applied Buty. dope model will last for many years.

Brodak is IMO the best available. It is a bit more pricey but it goes on and does better than any other that I have ever used and that use started back in the late '40s.
Brodak worked with Randolph to set the features of the dope for glow-powered model airplanes. Sig is - in my opinion - simply repackaged Randolph.

Butyrate dope over silk is second only to the best-ever paint which was K&B's original epoxy, followed by "Hobbypoxy". Thanks to all the idiots in the government around the time all the regulations were introduced removing everything of any worth. We children don't know how to take care of ourselves you know!

One of the early polyurethanes was also 100% nitro positive. (Old brain at rest, forget the name) It took 2 days to dry but nitro did not touch it. It was a paint store item. I was one of the first to test it on models and sold it through my Hobby Shop in Mt. Prospect, IL, also long gone. It was later distributed by a company for camo models. I still have some. I could go to barn and check name but it too is 20 years gone.
Red Devil was a fuel proof poly but that also fell to the axe of our benefactors, also on government payroll.

Brodak is about all that is left.

Your silkwork is fantastic. Give it a great finnish and fly it forever.

Here is a picture of the wing. I used Randolph nitrate and butyrate. I only have the nitrate on in these prictures. It will be powered by a DLE-55

Hoss, Ithink you were thinking of "Imron". It was made by Dupont. K&B Super Poxy was also Imron. The EPA had it removed from the market place because the fumes were to toxic. But if you were using it in a paint booth, the fumes were sucked out by the fan. It was a great paint though.

Pettit had a paint called Hobby Poxy. Mixed 1:1 with hardener, and you had to wait 45 minutes before you could spray it.

Frank

Imron paint is still available. It is used in the automotive trade for painting Semi trucks and other commercial vehicles that need a tough finish. Check local bodyshop supply stores.

Klass Kote over butyrate and silk works just about as good as K & B. Silk was applied with nitrate with a butyrate & talc filler.

John

Hossfly, ever'body know dat word is pernounced jest lak the thing youse buys beer inpitcher

Thanks for the picture!! Looks good. You have to love it when we take over the kitchen with our planes.

Chopper

Is silk stronger, lighter, smoother or any other advantage versus a polyester covering like Koverall?

Same question...

I can't answer that question because I have not used Koverall. All I know is that the silk goes on great and easy around curves. I did put mine on wet, stretched it tight then nitrate the edges until the silk dried. I am just about ready to spray the paint on mine.

How about compared to the likes of Monokote or Ultracote?

Much stronger than mono or ultra. Easier to apply on wing tips and fillets. I would guess probably the same weight.

It can be just as lite, just depends on how much paint you put on, especially the primer. One of the great things about silk is, it is super strong and will last just about forever if done properly. You just can't beat a good silk and dope finish for looks. It can also really look bad if done wrong, and that includes MonoKote. Iwould much rather have a good silk job then plastic any day.

That is one great looking covering job. If your finish looks anywhere near as good as this, you will have a fantastic looking plane.

Ed