Huh - won't pull the fuel through...huh..... The fuel should move positively and manfully through hose, responding to turns on the prop. OK - your tank's centerline is even with the carb? If not, make it so...a little above or below is OK, as long as it's only a little. Sounds like a new problem, though.

Do I remember right? The carb is held into the engine with a screw from the side? Make sure that screw's tight, but don't bend the carb body itself...tightly-snug is a good way to approach it. Same with the carb itself - it should be a snug slip-fit into the engine. Long as you're at it, unscrew the carb-holding screw and pull the carb out, making sure of your snug slip-fit Like good gloves...

The spray-bar.....check your engine manual or look it up on the web or something and make SURE that the hole in the spray-bar is in the middle of the carb throat and pointed in the same direction as the book shows. This, I THINK, is down into the engine, but don't quote me. In other words, you should be able to poke a pin (don't do this) through the cross-drilled hole in the spray bar and it should be able to go straight into the engine.....I THINK. Check with the book...

The position of that hole, when the engine is running, is the key to how the engine will use vacuum to draw fuel - or not, as the case may be. I felt stoopid - had a new Fox .35 Stunt C/L engine that wouldn't run worth a s**t. I messed with it for weeks, just knowing that it was me, then an old C/L guy (LHS owner) took a glance at it and said the spraybar's hole (for that engine) is supposed to be *across* the airflow into the carb - in other words, sideways.

We're probably worrying about it too much, eh? It's gonna be something stupid. Anyway - back to the not-drawing-fuel issue: There's really only 2 reasons it won't draw - either the engine's played (not likely, since you're having trouble getting it past compression), or there's an airleak somewhere........... and more dots ....................

Fuel lines - at the tank (both pressure and fuel-supply lines), the lines should be tightly sealed with a short piece of fuel line over the fitting...d'you know about that technique? MUCH better than twisted wires..... Same at the engine itself - the fuel line should be tightly clamped to the nipple with another piece of fuel line.... The carb should fit tightly...if you're concerned in the least, use some silicone or make a gasket or something to seal the join around the engine/carb........ tight wins.

When I say we're worrying too much, my Enya's were non-thought engines. Just prime, light and flip...all done. Hint: a can of old-fashioned lighter fluid. Squirt a couple drops into the carb - it'll fire Guaranteed

Props are listed as 10x6, 9x6, 9x5, etc. It's diameter/pitch, in that order. A bigger engine will spin a bigger prop. The more pitch, the 'faster' the prop is. One revolution of the prop will 'bite' further into the air if it's got more pitch. The correlation is just like a car - higher numerical rear-end ratio, the more stumps you can pull. The lower the pitch on the prop, the more stumps you can pull...it 'gears the engine down'. There are acceptable ranges for all engines... my .15's would fly anything from a 8x3 to 9x4. Too little load and you'll overrev the engine...too much load and it won't wind up properly....