Welcome and good luck Circus Lion.

Like most of my fellow tank-aholics I too believe he means the track link pins. Paint or CA (Crazy Glue) are both good options to constrict track pin movements. Spend 1/2 hour fixing them all (Off the tank is easiest) and save yourself disappointment down the road...Literally.

Check you track tension too... You should have the correct number of links from the factory. Most pre assembled tanks are pretty good about it. I just bought 3 of the new HL Shermans and I have to take one link out of each side since they were way too loose. Your tracks should sag gently from the top when the tank (with battery) sits flat atop your workbench. Too tight and the tracks will break or wear out fast . Too loose and the will be thrown or slip while climbing or turning sharply. The first pic of a Panther being build on my workbench. The tracks look tight as all the internal parts and battery are not yet installed to weigh it down (just the TUs are in place). The second pic of of a finished tank with the added internal weight and upper superstructure. You can see the torsion bars are compressed and the tank sits well. The biggest flaw of the cheap RC tanks is the lack of any track tensioning system at all.


Helpful Hint: Designate one track link as the "Master link or King Pin" and use that as the main connection for any track work. Mark it with a contrasting paint on the inside or for metal tracks, by cutting a distinguishing notch in the "Master link". Check that link each time you drive the tank and the rest of the pins just periodically.

Just like in the real tanks, PM (Preventative Maintenance) is key to a trouble free tank.


PS I just have to ask..... Why that name?