Hi tankers,

I'm new to this forum, i have 2 Taigen tanks (KV-1 and a the King Tiger). If you guys can help me out with this issue with the King Tiger.
When i run the tank (King Tiger) the pins on the left side go off...Should i add another link to this side or else.

Thanks for your answers.

Welcome Circus Lion. Do you mean the pins back out on the track or are you talking about the track itself comes off? If you track is coming off you can try taking a link out but sometimes that makes them too tight. If thats the case you might have to buy some track tensioners for it. I am in the same position with my Heng Long Stug.

Thanks for the reply Stripper.

The pins on the felt side go off, i have to put them back after 5 minutes running time. I tried to add link but not a good idea . The track does not comes off on ly for the pins... I just bought it a month ago... any idea?

Try the suggestions in this thread: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_99...tm.htm#9987360

I used a little CA glue to keep the pins in my metal tracks on both my Panther G & KV-1.


~ Craig ~

(1) You can put a drop of ca glue on the end of the pin, (2) or you can remove the track,remove the pin lay the track open an spray some metal/plastic primer to build op a layer of paint on the pins preventing them to come loose.

Am i going to waste my gearbox by doing that guys?
Thnak you for your advices.

Quick answer ... no.

I'm confused by your issue, but it's late and maybe I'm missing something.

There are track pins which are the metal rods that are holding the track links together.
Then there are the guide horns on the track links themselves that keep it centered, which can slip past the idler (rear) wheel and cause the track to come off.

Are the pins backing out of their slots and sticking out or is the track as a whole slipping off the tank?

Welcome, by the way.

Welcome and good luck Circus Lion.

Like most of my fellow tank-aholics I too believe he means the track link pins. Paint or CA (Crazy Glue) are both good options to constrict track pin movements. Spend 1/2 hour fixing them all (Off the tank is easiest) and save yourself disappointment down the road...Literally.

Check you track tension too... You should have the correct number of links from the factory. Most pre assembled tanks are pretty good about it. I just bought 3 of the new HL Shermans and I have to take one link out of each side since they were way too loose. Your tracks should sag gently from the top when the tank (with battery) sits flat atop your workbench. Too tight and the tracks will break or wear out fast . Too loose and the will be thrown or slip while climbing or turning sharply. The first pic of a Panther being build on my workbench. The tracks look tight as all the internal parts and battery are not yet installed to weigh it down (just the TUs are in place). The second pic of of a finished tank with the added internal weight and upper superstructure. You can see the torsion bars are compressed and the tank sits well. The biggest flaw of the cheap RC tanks is the lack of any track tensioning system at all.


Helpful Hint: Designate one track link as the "Master link or King Pin" and use that as the main connection for any track work. Mark it with a contrasting paint on the inside or for metal tracks, by cutting a distinguishing notch in the "Master link". Check that link each time you drive the tank and the rest of the pins just periodically.

Just like in the real tanks, PM (Preventative Maintenance) is key to a trouble free tank.


PS I just have to ask..... Why that name?

No, Just take care of them and they will take care of you.

Oil the shafts and bearings in the gearboxes with light machine oil (NO WD 40) and lube the face of the gears with white lithium grease or similar lube. Seal the TUs off from the rest of the tank at the output shafts by the drive sprockets. Fabricate simple cover for them to keep the lube in while keeping dirt, loose parts and wires out.

I lubed them up with lithium grease! It should help! we shall see!!

Keep in mind that you want to use a grease that will not eat away at the plastic.

The white lithium is fine and the darker it gets the more it indicates it is dirty and is time for a lube change. Once a year I remove my TUs for a through cleaning and adjustment. Do use a light machine oil (Plastic friendly like Wayne mentioned...thanks pal) for the TU shafts and bushings. Grease will NOT lube them.