RCU Forums - View Single Post - Building Ringmasters
View Single Post
Old 07-13-2013 | 05:21 PM
  #40  
paw080
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
From: Corona, CA
Default RE: Building Ringmasters


ORIGINAL: GallopingGhostler

ORIGINAL: paw080 Well GG, my Ringmaster Jr, powered by a PAW .080 SBR weighs 7ozs. To me, that is optimal for the smallish 195sq'' wing area. I fly it on .008'' X 44' lines. The Ringmaster Jr actually is a bit small for the PAW .080. It would fly even better at 230-240 sq''s. Your OS.15FP is overkill for such a small model. If you could build the full size Ringmaster to weigh about the 18-19 ozs; your .15FP would fly it beautifully on 54'-56' lines. Or a more simple project would be a Profile Peacemaker(approx. 300sq''s) using the .15FP for power. I have built and flown many 1950-1960's 330-395 sq'' models using .15 diesels; that includes full size Flite-Streaks, Veco and Dumas Tomahawks and a CLC Super Clown. Tony
That is rather light, Tony. Without the engine, wouldn't that be a 5 oz. plane? I gather that the diesels provide you with the power of glow at less weight swinging the same size props.

I built mine with the kit wood. Less engine and muffler at about 6 oz, plane itself is 13 oz. Sterling used 1/8'' luan plywood instead of 1/16'' birch for the front plank. I used Perfect streamline wheels, which I could go to modern RC light wheels. Just curious how you got it down to 7 ounces less?

You're right on the power for a light Ringmaster. That would take a careful selection of wood and finish. I'll have a similar problem on weight with the kit wood F6F Hellcat, aircraft is of the same proportions as the Ringmaster. For that I was going to the K&B .20 Sportster AAC Schneurle.

Hi George, I used the Paw .080sbr, because it gives more usable power than a TD .049....That's right I said usable power...

I fly with a 6X4 Cox prop, which is too great a load for the TD 049. I also am using a .5oz fuel tank to fly long enough

to complete a stunt pattern. My model complete, ready to fly with out the engine, does weigh less than 5ozs.

Of course I substituted all wood in the kit, using 1/16" ply doublers, and I shortened the nose to locate the CG close to

20%. It uses wing mounted wire gear with super lightweight wheels. A Ring Jr I built amost 20 years ago was

built from a kit, I only substituted the kit doublers with 1/16" plywood sheet. That model weighed 10.5ozs, and was

powered with an Allen Mercury .10cc diesel, commonly known as the AM10. It flew perfectly, flying the stunt pattern

with a soft ease on 42' X .008" lines. That model needed 3/4oz weight under the stab to bring the CG back for

optimal stunt flying. That is why on subsequent Ring Jrs, I shortened the nose moment, to eliminate the need for tail ballast

and shed more ozs to decrease the model's wing loading. The PAW .080 SBR weighs about 2.25 ozs and the AM 10 is about

3.2 ozs.

As a side note, When stationed at Kirtland AFB, I built a Jr powered with a Webra Mach-1. It was heavy and just flew big open

lazy eights and overhead stuff. My very first Ringmaster Jr was built in the early 1950's, it flew quite well with a Cub .099 on

35' lines. I'll be glad to answer more questions about my 1/2A Jrs and If I can remember how to post a pic, I shall.

Tony