I buillt and am flying one of these now.
It came out tail heavy with the ZDZ80rv, I have had to add close to a pound of lead to the nose. My plane is about 23lbs with the lead.

it might help to invest in a digital scale so you can choose the lighter sheeting for the stab/rudder.

There are a couple reports of people who had wing failure, you should brace up the main ribs which hold the wing tube especially where there are those big lightening holes.

The shear web system is pretty good, don't try to force the spars to fit extremely closely
if they don't fit flush top/bottom with the shear webs, if you force them it will cause warping, better to fill the gap later with soda/thick CA. This is especially important on the leading and trailing edge shear webs.

The canopy mounting method is not optimal, it is better to build the entire top hatch removable similar to the Cardens/Aeroworks. Ron Eisner posted pictures a while back on how to do this. Also build the cowl with a cowl ring so that it mounts from bolts from inside the fuse instead of all those bolts going around the edge of the cowl. This is much better.

The wing tubes are cardboard, not phenolic, check that they are circular and fit the aluminum tube properly, it would help to harden them from the outside afterwards with thin CA before the soften up and cause excess play later. Do this before covering the plane.
You can put a stick through the wing tubes just past where they want you to put the wing bolt, this way the aluminum tube will stop there and you can put a hook in the root rib and use rubber bands to hold the wings together instead of the bolt though the wing tube method.

The fuse side sheeting is a real PIA.
Otherwise the plane is nice flying and a bargain at the price compared to other 33% options.

If you want pics I'll try to organize.

L