Deadeye

Still with me? Now comes one of the hardest coroplast cuts yet. This is where plans or an existing Four-Star comes in handy. As luck would have it, the 4* is a straight shot from the front of the top of the fuse, clear to the tail. In other words, ignore the turtle deck, and it sits at 90 degrees to the firewall (0 degrees thrust). This also makes it a sinch to glue the tail and get 0 degrees on the tail feathers (which will be covered later).

Cut a piece of coro 50.5 inches X 15 inches. The flutes run in the 50.5" direction. This is slightly bigger than the actual fuse, but the rest will be trimmed away. Remember how the wood interior is 3 1/2 inches wide? Remember that. 4 mil coro is about 1/4 thick, so that width combined with the 3 1/2 inch wood makes the Cor-Star fuse 4 inches wide.

Find the center flute of the piece you just cut. It helps to mark each flute with a pen as you count, and marking each 5th flute in case you lose track. Bright lights are helpful with this. Once you have the center flute marked, draw a line the whole 50.5 inch length. This line is a reference for the rest of the fuse building, as well as for lining up the tail feathers. Use a permament marker if you want. This line will remain on the inside of the fuse, so mark away.

From the center of the center flute, measure out 1 3/4 inches on each side. Mark these lines with a marker as well. Make sure your frame will fit in the flutes that are marked. These lines represent the fold of the fuselage to form the sides. Hopefully you will end up on the edge of a flute, but different coro measures different. The centerline will be used for all subsequent measures.