PM for new season:
Replaced the broken rocker arm bolt that occurred when the engine was sent back to me.
Valve adjustment:
Using Scott's advice, I rotated the shaft until the needed intake push valve at the base of the engine started to recess and then turned the prop another 360 degrees and then set the valve clearance with the feeler gauge for a snug fit.
Engine to fire wall:
Re-attached the engine to the fire wall and two servos, along with putting the ignition box back on the fire wall. Some electrical tape on the screwed on connector to insure it doesn't vibrate lose.
Engine test.
Initially, the engine wouldn't start. Found out that the separate voltage regulator was defective. Scott said the new blue ignition modules have their own regulators so it's not needed.
After removing the regulator, the engine started easily.
Low end was good at 800 but only maxed out at 3700 on the top end.
After playing with the H/L needles, I called John (moki tech at TBM).
He said:
Needle settings: L: 1 ¼, H: 1 ½ and usually keep it there for high end. Just adjust the low needle by 1/16” turn at a time. Idle 700-800, High 3800-4000, 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] cylinder should be 160-165 degrees. Top cylinder max 220 degrees.
Last year I was getting 4000 rpm's but max'ed out at 3700, this year.
Getting late, will get some new, fresh gas, tomorrow, and try again.
