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Old 12-09-2015 | 09:30 PM
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Cruiser133
 
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Originally Posted by DaveBcool
There are many secrets young grasshopper.

I think (most of) the long wires are necessary, so you can take the turret and/or the top hull off to work on the inside.
The key is to get them out of the way in such a way that they can be raveled/unraveled easily.

I use cable ties to bundle wires together as much as possible.
The motor wires I run under the mount plate and speaker.
I did shorten my speaker wire by unscrewing the top off the speaker, then pulling just enough of the wire back into the speaker.
I use Deans connectors on my batteries, so I can lose the bulky Tamiya Y connector and solder two wires to each post on the Deans.
I loop the receiver wires under the mount plate, then zip tie.
The rest, I try to create one umbilical between the hull and turret.
In the Pershing, I put 1 twist in the umbilical and keep almost all of it pushed to the back of the turret bustle, making sure it is clear of the recoil unit.
I only have an 1 or 2 inches of the umbilical down into the tank.
I attach the main gun flash wires to the inside of the turret, and the capacitor (I think) to the back of the bustle.

A few other tips...
A zip tie (you'll need a bigger one than those included) around the rotation unit helps to keep the turret ring engaged.
Some like to CA glue the slipper clutch on the rotation unit since it gets hung up easily.
This is great advice, like others have stated, real estate within the Pershing is at a premium. Expect to have several false starts before you get it right, well at least right enough to live with!