It is nice especially for bench testing. A little lame when they say "GO" at a battle and you've forgotten to disengage it cause your yapping with a teammate next to you. By no means a deal breaker, just gotta haul ass up to your platoon if your on attack or ambush.

[QUOTE=Tanker 10;12139195]The JS-2 was my first Tamiya tank. Even though I read the part about the neutral throttle, I didn't understand it fully until I tried to move the tank for the first time and then what I had read kicked in. I was prepared for this when testing the Pershings electronics. Just curious as to why all of the Tamiya tanks don't have this feature, I like it.[/QUOTE
I really like the neutral throttle also. it is on the Pershing and the KV 1 elctronics which i use in a number of tanks, My T-34,ZTZ99 A i installed it in too. Good universal diesel sound.

So I had ordered bearings for the road wheels on my new Pershing. The package finally arrived today, EMPTY. Does anyone in the USA carry bearings for the Tamiya tanks?

You need (42) 5x8x2.5mm bearings for the wheels and suspension arms inside the lower hull. Could look on ebay such as this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Hobb...gAAOSwmrlU0l0c

Or sealed bearings like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...cAAOxyA9dSU5W3

Thanks TheBennyB, ordered.

Do thess bearings have the plastic safe grease in them? I was told it has to be plastic safe or it will ruin the wheels fairly quickly.

I don't know, I bought the rubber shielded bearings. I've used them before near plastic and haven't seen any ill effects. Thanks for the warning however.

I've never had problems with any type of bearing in contact with plastic though I've never lubricated them before install.

I've installed the road wheels, tracks and idlers. The idler system leaves a lot to be desired, I don't see anyway of adjusting track tension. Are you guys running aftermarket idlers? Sorry guys, I can't get the 2nd photo to lay flat. I've tried flipping it but it keeps uploading vertical.

[QUOTE=Tanker 10;12144150]I've installed the road wheels, tracks and idlers. The idler system leaves a lot to be desired, I don't see anyway of adjusting track tension. Are you guys running aftermarket idlers?[/QUOTe

The stock idler system works well. I've only seen a tammy pershing throw a track under extreme conditons of deep loose dirt/sand and doing fast pivot turns during IR battle.

[QUOTE=TheBennyB;12144155]So that pin to hold the idler arm doesn't give you any trouble?

For future reference, Boca Bearings is in the States, ships fast and has excellent selection and service. They really knows their stuff, not just a basic reseller.

Are you talking about the cotter pin?
It is a little tricky to get in and out, but I would not really call it a problem.
The Idler adjust is limited to 3 positions.
I think mine has always been in positioned in the middle/ with the pin almost straight up and down.

I tried the Schumo aftermarket idler adjust to get more positions, but did not care for it as it was too loose.
Mitosal sells their own version, which appears to be engineered better than Schumo's, but I don't know anyone who runs one.
So I use the stock Tamiya one w/ no issues.

I never had a problem w/ my 1st set of tracks that I ran for 4 years.
But my replacement set that I bought a few months ago, were a little 'sticky,' or too tight between the end caps and the links.
This caused them to bind a bit which mad a kinda popping noise as I drove.
So I took them off and massaged them a bit and put a little lateral torque on them by hand, which loosened them up a bit.

Looking at your photo, it looks like your idler is in the loosest position, with the idler wheel basically touching the 1st road wheel.
Try the next position up, which should put more like a few mm between them.

Thank you ausf

Yes, the pin. I can see the hole in the arm enlarging after a while and then causing slop. Thanks for the tip on the idler wheel, I'll check it tomorrow.