Well, you can bet that I am reading it. and learning a bunch as well.

As far as the painting for me, well, that is pretty much it. Have a top flite sea fury, that technically someone else painted for me,but the way i wanted it. It is in RAF colors. but no rivets, panel lines, etc, just the way I wanted it. there is at least one scale stickler in my club that his first words will be, "the panel lines are missing". Second is my first painting attempt that went on an R140 Q500 plane. I used the auto air colors on it, plus a single stage clear. Learned an important lesson, don't wet-sand water based paints. So I am going to call this my Shabby Chic plane. plus all of the things I learned not to do, and how to do them better in the future.

I have an auto paint store within 30 miles that has the auto air paints, and supposedly I can get the wicked colors from hobby lobby or michael's so will be able to practice some with them as well. I have shot the pearl white auto air, and i love the way in shimmers in the light.

Here is the wording from auto air on their aluminum, which is why I think masking over it will be a problem.
Aluminum Bases are sensitive to touch. Do not wipe clean or scuff after painting as any direct contact will create visible streak marks in the final finish due to the aluminum flakes being bent & crushed when wiped. The aluminum flakes are brilliant but are much different to work with compared to Auto Air 4300 Series silvers. Applying a clear top-coat or candy mid-coat is recommended soon after Aluminum Bases have cured. Apply 4004 Transparent Base or 4030 Auto Air Inter-Coat if extended time is planned before top-coating as inter-coat will protect from direct contact when cleaning prior to clear.