Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > Pattern Universe - RC Pattern Flying > RC Pattern Flying
Reload this Page >

Painted wing, stabs and advanced graphics

Notices
RC Pattern Flying Discuss all topics pertaining to RC Pattern Flying in this forum.

Painted wing, stabs and advanced graphics

Old 04-07-2017, 05:00 AM
  #376  
kenh3497
 
kenh3497's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rockwell, IA
Posts: 1,514
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

After repairing my pattern plane I got this funny little line in the paint. The color is acrylic from hobby lobby and cleared with automotive urethane. It's funny the mark is on the opposite side of the color change. I have several spots that did this but only on the white. Maybe a total of 12 to 14 inches of this phenomenon. The tape is 3M Fineline.

I don't mean to hijack your thread but thought this would be the best place to get an opinion

Ken


Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	20170406_212423.jpg
Views:	863
Size:	482.0 KB
ID:	2208726   Click image for larger version

Name:	anitas paint.jpg
Views:	803
Size:	18.6 KB
ID:	2208804  

Last edited by kenh3497; 04-07-2017 at 05:49 PM.
Old 04-07-2017, 07:35 AM
  #377  
scratchpc7
Senior Member
 
scratchpc7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Hi Ken,
Not sure that I am the best answer but here is my experience.

I am curious, is the paint you used the Testor's Acrylic airbrush paint in the squarish bottles? like this? https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Airbr...airbrush+paint

If so, I had the same problem on my first paint job. It bled under the mactac vinyl masking leaving some spots like that, only worse. the base paint was the duplicolor white that I got from the auto store. Earlier in this thread I have pics showing what it came out like.

Hopefully someone else has some better explanation.

Doug
Old 04-07-2017, 11:25 AM
  #378  
kenh3497
 
kenh3497's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Rockwell, IA
Posts: 1,514
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I used craft paint. Anitas I think. Goes on nice.

EDIT: I placed a photo of the exact paint I used as a base color in my previous post.

Ken

Last edited by kenh3497; 04-07-2017 at 05:51 PM.
Old 09-21-2017, 05:04 AM
  #379  
peterpaul
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Libertyville, IL
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default In expensive water based spray paints

I am moving into the wonderful world of electics. Any suggestions for waterbased spray paints. I am starting out with a few inexpensive kits. Thanks for any Suggestions...
Pete..in Chicago..
Old 09-21-2017, 06:26 AM
  #380  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Pete,

By far the best stuff out there is Createx Auto Air. There is a ton of information available on them. They do require some special handling just like any water base paint. They need to be put on with light to medium coats and let dry before you hit them again. In other words, they need to be built up. You can't just lay on a heavy wet coat or you will have big problems. The folks at Coast Airbrush are experts on the stuff. There is a major shift in the car and motor cycle graphic guys to water base. The stuff has advanced to the point that is just as good as solvent based.

Auto Air Colors™

Pat
Old 02-04-2021, 07:34 AM
  #381  
Bubblehead575
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Pat

I have used your methods to do an Agenda and it came out great. However it didn't last long due to a dumb mistake on my part. I am attempting to use it again on a scratch built plane I have. It has a 60 inch built up wing and fully sheeted. Due to some soft balsa skins on the bottom of the wing I decided to use the carbon fiber tissue you and Matt discussed here, for added strength. I put 2 Coats of Lacquer on all surfaces first, and then sanded with 220. However when I put the carbon tissue down with Poly, using the same method as with silkspan, the fiber started separating and moving so I didn't get the poly squeesed out as well as I would have liked. And the panels buckeled.

Not sure if the buckle is because of the excess Poly or bad glue job on the sheeting, or perhaps I should have added a third coat of Lacquer.. Any insite from you would be greatly appricated before I do the top and mess it up too.

Thanks Bill

Last edited by Bubblehead575; 02-04-2021 at 07:39 AM.
Old 02-04-2021, 12:38 PM
  #382  
jester_s1
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 7,252
Received 31 Likes on 28 Posts
Default

Bill, you will probably get more replies by creating a new thread in the composites fabrication and repair or scratch building forums.
Old 02-04-2021, 02:56 PM
  #383  
speedracerntrixie
My Feedback: (29)
 
speedracerntrixie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Happy Valley, Oregon
Posts: 8,400
Received 114 Likes on 100 Posts
Default

Bill, did you use water based Poly?
Old 02-04-2021, 05:16 PM
  #384  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Bill

I don't have a lot for you. It's been many years sense I used the carbon matt. My guess is the buckling (warping) was due to the water base poly. I had it happen on ailerons and a bit on thin wings. The way I stopped it was to put a coat of poly on both sides of the surface and put some weight on them for a few hours. In fact, that's the reason I moved over to bedding the silkspan with lacquer. Once I started doing that I eliminated the warping issues.

From what I can recall, I do remember a bit of the delaminating of the carbon matt, but nothing significant.
Old 02-05-2021, 07:46 AM
  #385  
Bubblehead575
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Pat
I did use the water based Poly for laying up the carbon tissue. I had no problem with it when I did the Agenda wings and stab, with the Silkspan. Did you thin the Lacquer when you layup the Silkspan and if so, how much?

Thanks for your help


Old 02-05-2021, 09:08 AM
  #386  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Bill

Yes I thin the lacquer maybe 20 to 30 percent. I go by looks more than anything. I want it pretty thin. Not as thin as water, but close.
Old 11-27-2021, 07:35 PM
  #387  
kregan
 
kregan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Highland, MD
Posts: 1,895
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Portlandflyer View Post
Bill

I don't have a lot for you. It's been many years sense I used the carbon matt. My guess is the buckling (warping) was due to the water base poly. I had it happen on ailerons and a bit on thin wings. The way I stopped it was to put a coat of poly on both sides of the surface and put some weight on them for a few hours. In fact, that's the reason I moved over to bedding the silkspan with lacquer. Once I started doing that I eliminated the warping issues.

From what I can recall, I do remember a bit of the delaminating of the carbon matt, but nothing significant.
Portland flyer, first let me thank you for the wonderful thread. I have had this printed out since last year and just started working on a set of wings using your guidance but I just noticed this reply above... Are you saying you no longer use the poly at all?

I just applied the silkspan with poly not more than an hour ago, LOL. It sounds like you are laying the the silkspan in a clear lacquer directly on the balsa with no sealer applied first?

Can you briefly outline the steps you now use?


Old 11-27-2021, 09:52 PM
  #388  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kregan View Post
Portland flyer, first let me thank you for the wonderful thread. I have had this printed out since last year and just started working on a set of wings using your guidance but I just noticed this reply above... Are you saying you no longer use the poly at all?

I just applied the silkspan with poly not more than an hour ago, LOL. It sounds like you are laying the the silkspan in a clear lacquer directly on the balsa with no sealer applied first?

Can you briefly outline the steps you now use?
You will be fine with the Poly. What was happening is I was getting some warping of the wings and surfaces due to it being water based.. Because I use Ultacote on the bottoms, I wasn't coating both side, which caused some warping. The lacquer will reduce the warping, but I have found an issue with it. The lacquer doesn't seem to bond as well as the Poly and I have had a few small bubbles on the surface show up, which is no big deal structurally, it just didn't give the long term smooth finish.

If you get some warping of the wings and surfaces, I just put some weight on the opposite side and they are fine a few days. If you are silk spanning both sides of the wings and control surfaces it will even out the stress and limit the warping.

One other bedding material that works well is non taunting dope like a lot of used years ago. I did a wing with it, and it worked fine, but the stuff will kill you from the smell without a respirator. After working with this stuff for several years, the Poly has been the best for longevity.

Good luck. Anything else, let me know. BTW, I'm in Colorado now, so I guess I need to change my online name!
The following users liked this post:
kregan (11-28-2021)
Old 11-28-2021, 08:16 AM
  #389  
kregan
 
kregan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Highland, MD
Posts: 1,895
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Thank you for the quick reply,

I am doing both sides and sealed everything with clear lacquer. The ailerons are not as thin as the ones you were working with and so far no warping.

One thing I discovered when applying the silk. As I was working out a wrinkle with my finger I could feel more clear under the silk in some areas then in others. Instead of trying to use a credit card or something as a squeegee I just rubbing the silk down with my fingers. That helped even out the distribution of the clear polly across the entire wing and it seemed to really set the silk in place. Of course gloves are required to do it that way.

Old 11-28-2021, 04:53 PM
  #390  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Kelly

I have done it with fingers as well, but my best method is to use the foam brushes with the plastic stiffener inside as a squeegee. I put on a coat of Poly, lay the silk span on and squeegee it out all in one step wit the same brush.
Old 12-03-2021, 02:31 AM
  #391  
David Bathe
 
David Bathe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oslo, NORWAY
Posts: 1,262
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Portlandflyer. Man, your work is FANTASTIC!
Standing ovation!
Old 12-03-2021, 07:38 AM
  #392  
Portlandflyer
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Thank you

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.