Hi Pat,

the hok paint worked well enough. My base was yellow which required white under it to hide and a bunch more light coats than other paints I have used in the past. It definitely got spendy. Not sure why but in my case the paint tended to lift when pulling the masks. Not a lot of lift but rather small, annoying spots, sometimes on the surfaces edges and sometimes not.

It went over Klass Kote primer very well, flowing out very well.. The base yellow produced a very smooth surface with no splotchy appearance. It looked ready for mask colors so the first time, I didn't sand the base. That was a mistake it seems since some masked colors tended to pull the base in tiny spots and in others, the masked color came off a bit when removing the tape. Sanding the base might be the solution here.

I am just about ready for clear. What do you use to clean this paint? The wax remover attacks it. Heck even alcohol attacks it. I've found when lightly sanding prior to the clear to knock down ridges, that the paint had a tendency to ball up. I learned while wet sanding to stop every little bit to check the paper, 600 grit, for balls on the paper. I learned to control the ball build up. What's your experience?

One of its best features is the fact that it dries very fast and can be handled quickly. I was able to mask small areas in a half hour or so. Really tended to move the work along, a super feature. The clear coats are gas proof so I don't expect any issues. Weight build up was slightly less than other paint systems I've used.

would you please shed some light on the practical details of HOK painting? If you covered some of this already, what pages please?