I'm on my 3rd now with a Moki 2.10. I agree with just about everything posted but I'll share a couple extra points.
1. Make sure that the wings, elevator halves and ailerons are warp free. Hangar 9 hasn't shipped a wing that didn't have a warp in it (neither has anyone else for that matter). Every other trim technique is null and void unless the wings are straight. Put a meter on them, twist them straight and iron out the wrinkles, several times for each side until they're right!
2. I've been using the ball-bearing belcrank from MK for elevator. It's designed for pattern but the large one fits in the H9 Cap. You'll have to glue in 3/32 ply triangles in the fuse side lightening holes to support it. It eliminates asymetry in the elevator that'll come with running the Y pushrod or dual servo's, especially with 45 deg. Coupled to a carbon rod and ball links it's a bulletproof set up and virtually friction free. Central Hobbies sells them.
3. Mount your gear with 2 1/4-20 bolts thought the front 2 holes. I used the carbon gear too and just tapped the 1" x 1/2" block for 1/4-20.
4. If you're going to hover and T/R, consider installing a baffle in the cowl cheek for that Moki. Mine is mounted on its side and has louvers cut in the cheek behind the head. A business card works real well, just coat it in C/A. 10-1 compression + no airflow + 80 deg. day w/80% humidity = blown up Czech motor.
F.Y.I. The Cap that I built for a buddy with a 1.8 was the best balanced plane for 3D that I'd ever flown. It was perfect! You should have a ball with it. Just make sure that the wing is straight!

Chris