Boy, you ask for a lot, but I'll try. For the others, these are things that I have done and they work fine. My finished Pitts weighs 16.5 lbs. with a Brisson 3.2 and is a superb performer.

Your BME will do just fine. More power than you will know what to do with. Add some 1/8" ply strips inside the engine mounting box for better support for the blind nuts that you will likely want to install.

Add your choice of corner reinforcements at the inside of the fuselage/firewall junction. Without them my firewall pulled loose from the fuselage.

Cut an access hatch at the bottom of the firewall in the lower angled section. Throw away the piece you cut out and replace it with a new 1/8" ply access hatch laid completely over the flat angeled section, fitting it between the raised sides. Space your cuts to be 10mm inside of all the raised edges to permit for screw fasteners. I used wafer head servo mounting wood srews for this. The opening gives you access to all the areas you will want to strengthen or change. The access hatch also provides a mounting location for your ignition battery. Mine is attached to the hatches interior.

I added additional plywood bases and blind nuts at ALL the cabane to fuselage mounting points inside the fuse.

Remove the small balsa tri stock at the engine box and install 1/2" balsa tri strock after adding 1/8 plywood doublers at all exterior sides of the mount box.

Plan to install your throttle servo at the side of the engine mounting box. Determine where this is to be before you add the plywood doublers.

Remove a small piece of covering from the aft side of the fuselage to permit the addition of a light ply doubler at the tailwheel mounting area. Install blind nuts for the tailwheel. While you have the side open, note that the pre-installed antenna tube ends a long way before your receiver antenna ends and that there is no exit hole in the fuselage for the antenna. I re-routed the tube to exit out the top of the fuselage just between the canopy and the vertical stab. After cutting the MonoKote for the fuselage servo openings, add 1/8"x3/8"wide strips inside the fuselage at the servo opening ends for better mounting screw attachment.

Check to be certain that the wing saddles are at equal heights.

Check to be sure that the top cabanes allow for square and true mounting of the top wing prior to finalizing the top wing mounting proceedures. Measure from a reference point on each wingtip to the center of the tail to confirm alignment. Incidences are Bottom wing: zero, Top wing: O to 2 deg. negative (you will prefer the 2 Deg negative), Horizontal stab: zero

Use a 20oz. fuel tank, Dubros' works fine with a slight modification of the bulkhead opening. Add a lite ply plate for the tank and secure with your method of choice.

Two Hitec 5945 coreless digital servos drive all four ailerons just fine with excellent precision and authority. Very crisp on 4.8 volts. 6 volt digitals will make this plane very twitchy (IMO).

Use Central Hobbies 3/16 carbon fiber pushrods and titanium ends for your control rods. Use the suggested JB Weld for the pushrod/end assembly. VERY stiff pushrod. Allows no noticable flex and permits neat knife edge loops. Mount all your flight servos in the tail. I used Hitec 5925 coreless digitals. No problems. I used (1) Matchbox for the elevators. I split the aileron servos for flaperons. Flaperons are not mixed for anything other than separating the servos and channels. Aileron differential is not needed.

Use the most aft suggested C/G that the booklet provides (5-3/4") for your initial balance point. Any more forward makes for very fast landings. I prefer the factory suggested high rates on both the elevators and ailerons for my low rate. I ran out of elevator on landings using the factory low rates and the forward suggested C/G.

Replace the rubber with 4" Dubro, Sullivan, or Hanger 9. Do the same with the tailwheel.

I'm sure there's a lot more that I have failed to provide here, but this is a fair start.

It's a great flying plane. I hope you enjoy it. Feel free to send me a P/M if you want or need to.

Pat Roy