You won't need 4 servos for the ailerons. Two digitals and the response will be crisp and positive. The second pair will only add weight and leave a wire exposed somewhere unless you drill the cabane to run the upper wire down through like the one guy did. That adds a lot of unnecessary servo lead, though.

I used Dubro pinned hinges at all flight surfaces. Four hinges per surface. That's one more than the kit calls for per surface. I notched the "V" of the flight surface at each hinge location to allow for the hinge pin. This reduces the hinge gap.

When you are joining the bottom wing panels, use a 20 minute or slower epoxy. You need the time to be absolutely certain of the wing alignment and the dihedral. The correct dihedral angle sets the alignment of the wing "I" struts. Get your dihedral wrong and the struts won't fit properly. The dihedral brace in each of the wing panels is a very loose fit. Just add more epoxy and don't worry about the fit. It doesn't seem to be a problem.

Ignore the part of the plans about fishing your aileron servo leads through the wing panels prior to joining the panels. You will have more than enough open space to run a pull line through the wing for your servo leads after joining the panels. The supplied line in each panel is a little difficult to work with. You don't have to worry about keeping epoxy off the wires that way.

Bipes require a lot more alignment work than mono planes. The instruction book fails to mention proper alignment methods. Wing tip separation fore and aft should match. Wing tip distances to aft fuselage center should be equal. Top and bottom wing will be different totals, of course. Make some kind of reference line on each wing to assist yourself.

It all sounds like a lot of work, but it goes along just fine. It flys even better.

Pat