I am roughing out a chapter on Radio protocols and modifying to use a standard Hobby grade transmitter.
Do you think I should begin a different thread for each of these subjects?
I think the battery segment may elicit questions that deserve a thread all by themselves.
The radio solutions can be very intricate but I'm going to try and address the essential "tank centric" issues and demonstrate some advantages of using a 6-8ch radio and I'm hoping to get my hands on a FS-6 and modify it with centring on the throttle for tank specific use.
This radio seems to be born for for this hobby.
I will probably try to work with OpenPanzer on this as I see an integrated Hi-End option pack based on the OP and this radio.
I've also been playing with a
iRangeX IRX4 Plus 2.4G 4 IN 1 Multiprotocol STM32 TX Module
This allows my radio to emulate 90% of the 2.4Ghz protocols out there so I can control almost any device from one radio.
I'm going to play with this a bit and enlist the help of many other forums and their specialist users to summarise this here.
I will say that the RC5HL is the best tool I’ve ever seen to make the hobby attainable.
There is no setup change needed to move to a 2s LiPo solution except mounting the batteries and a connector. The voltages are close enough to be of no consequence. You can include a low voltage cut off if you think you may need one, personally when it gets slower I come home and change the battery.
I agree with the need to be diligent and aware but as you stated, the accident you mentioned was the result of misuse and probably ignorance by the tech.
I have used the procedure you mentioned to recover cells but being aware of the issues, used a specific area and monitored the procedure. It works sometimes. Don't tell me you haven't seen an NiMh pack explode due to unsupervised charging or failed equipment, the results can be just as catastrophic. Nearly every issue I’ve seen has been high energy packs being pushed to the limit or abused in competition environments. Or just idiots. As soon as you make something idiot proof we seem to generate a new level of idiots. I intend to minimise these issues by education. I cannot protect someone from themselves.
In scale armour the battery is not a critical component, it just provides motive power in a very steady and controlled way.
This is why I went the 18650 route, simple, stable, cheap, neat and reliable. Just what’s required so you can get on with countering those cunning Basset Hound tactics.
I won't agree that they are any more temperamental than NiCd/NiMhs just different. Back in the day there were all sorts of rituals to optimise packs that make the LiPo procedures seem simple. (That makes me feel SO old
) Whilst you also don't have to worry about the self discharge either. You can run a LiPo down to 2.8V/cell with little chance of damage actually. Most use 3.3v or so for a safety margin. There are a lot of protection circuits available for about a dollar that cure this easily.
I have an idea for a Low voltage alarm led that can be fitted anywhere on the hull that would give a visual sign without compromising the scale look very much, just the nub of a 3mm led poking out of the hull wherever is practicable.
My Radio rant will address Telemetry and FPV as well as multi-protocol systems, modifying for ground system specific handsets, and updated firmware that continues the idea of the original “TANKERx”, a good idea but a bit overcomplicated for most users at the time.
As for the heat issue I haven’t found that to be the case. Both chemistries are adversely affected by extremes in temperature but LiPos have developed to the point where I would consider them to be the more stable option.
I live in Australia where summers are regularly 100F and winters down to 20F daytime. (40C and -4C)
I use a bank of LiFePo4 (Lithium iron phosphate) cells as the battery in my motorcycle. These are more stable and are the weapon of choice in serious solar and wind generator systems. They are of a slightly lower nominal voltage than LiPos (3.3v/cell) but have a similar energy density. They lend themselves most perfectly to the “deep cycle” type of environments.
The fact remains that Lithium Chemistry is here and is the default storage in tens of millions of electronic devices and, as you will see in some future articles, all of these issues are easily addressed and that, by and large, a LiPo is a simpler, more compact and more effective solution. Like a lot of things they get simpler with familiarity.
These questions are exactly the reason I began this series of posts. Thank you all, keep challenging me as I can’t consider all angles from my limited insights, we learn by listening and teach with examples.
I mean to consolidate the battery myths and address any issues, whether Nickel or Lithium chemistry to maximise the Doggy stalking and minimise the fuss about batteries.
You will find that there are many potential arrangements which are all valid in the environment in which they are employed. My aim is to be resource that can offer an educated opinion without judgement to simplify one of the weak points in many hobbyists armour (pun intended). I offer the 18650 solution as an almost free solution that can be done with minimal tools and offers more runtime and slightly more power for an entry level Doggy hunter. The issue that seems most prevalent is that people transpose and confuse voltage and current. They are all ingredients of the same pizza but cheese is not pepperoni. Voltage is the toppings and amps is the family vs a single slice.
Well done to all of you by throwing some valid and pertinent issues that I’ll address more specifically in individual posts.
It seems that due to my amateur status on these forums I am limited to 5 posts in any 24 hr period (edits included) and I cannot post a URL until I’ve earned my chops.
Absence makes the heart grow fonder…
Smooth Roads
Bill
P.S.
My dogs hate all of you.
I breed pedigree Basset Hounds (the Maytag dog) as well as support an insufferable addiction to gizmos.