Tiger I, Pershing & a T34
07-13-2018 | 06:38 AM
#26
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I am really awaiting the production of water based Li-po as that technology is stable and not combustible.
I had a Li-po flame up on me from charging, once the chemical reaction starts it can't be stopped.
With the advent of kids in this hobby, I would only trust a non-combusible battery type.
I had a Li-po flame up on me from charging, once the chemical reaction starts it can't be stopped.
With the advent of kids in this hobby, I would only trust a non-combusible battery type.
As I said LiFePo4 is the weapon of choice for all high end long term use and is more stable, you can use this and have a similar or slightly lower voltage than a NiMh battery but far more current delivery with the inherent stability that is considered to be even better than a Pb battery that's been starting our cars for half a century or more.
Did you even read the intro post, I've been around this hobby longer than most have been sucking air and have seen most technologies come and go, I used to be a development engineer for a 6 coloured logo and played with everything that spins or goes fast to the point of being competitive. I race GoKarts and a modified production sedan and this point I am just playing and not being too serious. It doesn't mean that I don't do anything to the best of my ability.
I like tanks, they are beautifully sophisticated but essentially non competitive, closer to chess than RC.
I suggest you buy lots of NiMh packs and keep them in reserve as there is no option in the future of all electric RC.
Maybe I can sell you a cupboard full of 27Mhz radios to go with your vintage ethos?
Last edited by Brycevr; 07-13-2018 at 07:12 AM.
07-13-2018 | 07:23 AM
#27
I am roughing out a chapter on Radio protocols and modifying to use a standard Hobby grade transmitter.
Do you think I should begin a different thread for each of these subjects?
I think the battery segment may elicit questions that deserve a thread all by themselves.
The radio solutions can be very intricate but I'm going to try and address the essential "tank centric" issues and demonstrate some advantages of using a 6-8ch radio and I'm hoping to get my hands on a FS-6 and modify it with centring on the throttle for tank specific use.
This radio seems to be born for for this hobby.
I will probably try to work with OpenPanzer on this as I see an integrated Hi-End option pack based on the OP and this radio.
I've also been playing with a
iRangeX IRX4 Plus 2.4G 4 IN 1 Multiprotocol STM32 TX Module
This allows my radio to emulate 90% of the 2.4Ghz protocols out there so I can control almost any device from one radio.
I'm going to play with this a bit and enlist the help of many other forums and their specialist users to summarise this here.
I will say that the RC5HL is the best tool I’ve ever seen to make the hobby attainable.
There is no setup change needed to move to a 2s LiPo solution except mounting the batteries and a connector. The voltages are close enough to be of no consequence. You can include a low voltage cut off if you think you may need one, personally when it gets slower I come home and change the battery.
I agree with the need to be diligent and aware but as you stated, the accident you mentioned was the result of misuse and probably ignorance by the tech.
I have used the procedure you mentioned to recover cells but being aware of the issues, used a specific area and monitored the procedure. It works sometimes. Don't tell me you haven't seen an NiMh pack explode due to unsupervised charging or failed equipment, the results can be just as catastrophic. Nearly every issue I’ve seen has been high energy packs being pushed to the limit or abused in competition environments. Or just idiots. As soon as you make something idiot proof we seem to generate a new level of idiots. I intend to minimise these issues by education. I cannot protect someone from themselves.
In scale armour the battery is not a critical component, it just provides motive power in a very steady and controlled way.
This is why I went the 18650 route, simple, stable, cheap, neat and reliable. Just what’s required so you can get on with countering those cunning Basset Hound tactics.
I won't agree that they are any more temperamental than NiCd/NiMhs just different. Back in the day there were all sorts of rituals to optimise packs that make the LiPo procedures seem simple. (That makes me feel SO old
) Whilst you also don't have to worry about the self discharge either. You can run a LiPo down to 2.8V/cell with little chance of damage actually. Most use 3.3v or so for a safety margin. There are a lot of protection circuits available for about a dollar that cure this easily.
I have an idea for a Low voltage alarm led that can be fitted anywhere on the hull that would give a visual sign without compromising the scale look very much, just the nub of a 3mm led poking out of the hull wherever is practicable.
My Radio rant will address Telemetry and FPV as well as multi-protocol systems, modifying for ground system specific handsets, and updated firmware that continues the idea of the original “TANKERx”, a good idea but a bit overcomplicated for most users at the time.
As for the heat issue I haven’t found that to be the case. Both chemistries are adversely affected by extremes in temperature but LiPos have developed to the point where I would consider them to be the more stable option.
I live in Australia where summers are regularly 100F and winters down to 20F daytime. (40C and -4C)
I use a bank of LiFePo4 (Lithium iron phosphate) cells as the battery in my motorcycle. These are more stable and are the weapon of choice in serious solar and wind generator systems. They are of a slightly lower nominal voltage than LiPos (3.3v/cell) but have a similar energy density. They lend themselves most perfectly to the “deep cycle” type of environments.
The fact remains that Lithium Chemistry is here and is the default storage in tens of millions of electronic devices and, as you will see in some future articles, all of these issues are easily addressed and that, by and large, a LiPo is a simpler, more compact and more effective solution. Like a lot of things they get simpler with familiarity.
These questions are exactly the reason I began this series of posts. Thank you all, keep challenging me as I can’t consider all angles from my limited insights, we learn by listening and teach with examples.
I mean to consolidate the battery myths and address any issues, whether Nickel or Lithium chemistry to maximise the Doggy stalking and minimise the fuss about batteries.
You will find that there are many potential arrangements which are all valid in the environment in which they are employed. My aim is to be resource that can offer an educated opinion without judgement to simplify one of the weak points in many hobbyists armour (pun intended). I offer the 18650 solution as an almost free solution that can be done with minimal tools and offers more runtime and slightly more power for an entry level Doggy hunter. The issue that seems most prevalent is that people transpose and confuse voltage and current. They are all ingredients of the same pizza but cheese is not pepperoni. Voltage is the toppings and amps is the family vs a single slice.
Well done to all of you by throwing some valid and pertinent issues that I’ll address more specifically in individual posts.
It seems that due to my amateur status on these forums I am limited to 5 posts in any 24 hr period (edits included) and I cannot post a URL until I’ve earned my chops.
Absence makes the heart grow fonder…
Smooth Roads
Bill
P.S.
My dogs hate all of you.
I breed pedigree Basset Hounds (the Maytag dog) as well as support an insufferable addiction to gizmos.
Do you think I should begin a different thread for each of these subjects?
I think the battery segment may elicit questions that deserve a thread all by themselves.
The radio solutions can be very intricate but I'm going to try and address the essential "tank centric" issues and demonstrate some advantages of using a 6-8ch radio and I'm hoping to get my hands on a FS-6 and modify it with centring on the throttle for tank specific use.
This radio seems to be born for for this hobby.
I will probably try to work with OpenPanzer on this as I see an integrated Hi-End option pack based on the OP and this radio.
I've also been playing with a
iRangeX IRX4 Plus 2.4G 4 IN 1 Multiprotocol STM32 TX Module
This allows my radio to emulate 90% of the 2.4Ghz protocols out there so I can control almost any device from one radio.
I'm going to play with this a bit and enlist the help of many other forums and their specialist users to summarise this here.
I will say that the RC5HL is the best tool I’ve ever seen to make the hobby attainable.
There is no setup change needed to move to a 2s LiPo solution except mounting the batteries and a connector. The voltages are close enough to be of no consequence. You can include a low voltage cut off if you think you may need one, personally when it gets slower I come home and change the battery.
I agree with the need to be diligent and aware but as you stated, the accident you mentioned was the result of misuse and probably ignorance by the tech.
I have used the procedure you mentioned to recover cells but being aware of the issues, used a specific area and monitored the procedure. It works sometimes. Don't tell me you haven't seen an NiMh pack explode due to unsupervised charging or failed equipment, the results can be just as catastrophic. Nearly every issue I’ve seen has been high energy packs being pushed to the limit or abused in competition environments. Or just idiots. As soon as you make something idiot proof we seem to generate a new level of idiots. I intend to minimise these issues by education. I cannot protect someone from themselves.
In scale armour the battery is not a critical component, it just provides motive power in a very steady and controlled way.
This is why I went the 18650 route, simple, stable, cheap, neat and reliable. Just what’s required so you can get on with countering those cunning Basset Hound tactics.
I won't agree that they are any more temperamental than NiCd/NiMhs just different. Back in the day there were all sorts of rituals to optimise packs that make the LiPo procedures seem simple. (That makes me feel SO old
) Whilst you also don't have to worry about the self discharge either. You can run a LiPo down to 2.8V/cell with little chance of damage actually. Most use 3.3v or so for a safety margin. There are a lot of protection circuits available for about a dollar that cure this easily.I have an idea for a Low voltage alarm led that can be fitted anywhere on the hull that would give a visual sign without compromising the scale look very much, just the nub of a 3mm led poking out of the hull wherever is practicable.
My Radio rant will address Telemetry and FPV as well as multi-protocol systems, modifying for ground system specific handsets, and updated firmware that continues the idea of the original “TANKERx”, a good idea but a bit overcomplicated for most users at the time.
As for the heat issue I haven’t found that to be the case. Both chemistries are adversely affected by extremes in temperature but LiPos have developed to the point where I would consider them to be the more stable option.
I live in Australia where summers are regularly 100F and winters down to 20F daytime. (40C and -4C)
I use a bank of LiFePo4 (Lithium iron phosphate) cells as the battery in my motorcycle. These are more stable and are the weapon of choice in serious solar and wind generator systems. They are of a slightly lower nominal voltage than LiPos (3.3v/cell) but have a similar energy density. They lend themselves most perfectly to the “deep cycle” type of environments.
The fact remains that Lithium Chemistry is here and is the default storage in tens of millions of electronic devices and, as you will see in some future articles, all of these issues are easily addressed and that, by and large, a LiPo is a simpler, more compact and more effective solution. Like a lot of things they get simpler with familiarity.
These questions are exactly the reason I began this series of posts. Thank you all, keep challenging me as I can’t consider all angles from my limited insights, we learn by listening and teach with examples.
I mean to consolidate the battery myths and address any issues, whether Nickel or Lithium chemistry to maximise the Doggy stalking and minimise the fuss about batteries.
You will find that there are many potential arrangements which are all valid in the environment in which they are employed. My aim is to be resource that can offer an educated opinion without judgement to simplify one of the weak points in many hobbyists armour (pun intended). I offer the 18650 solution as an almost free solution that can be done with minimal tools and offers more runtime and slightly more power for an entry level Doggy hunter. The issue that seems most prevalent is that people transpose and confuse voltage and current. They are all ingredients of the same pizza but cheese is not pepperoni. Voltage is the toppings and amps is the family vs a single slice.
Well done to all of you by throwing some valid and pertinent issues that I’ll address more specifically in individual posts.
It seems that due to my amateur status on these forums I am limited to 5 posts in any 24 hr period (edits included) and I cannot post a URL until I’ve earned my chops.
Absence makes the heart grow fonder…
Smooth Roads
Bill
P.S.
My dogs hate all of you.
I breed pedigree Basset Hounds (the Maytag dog) as well as support an insufferable addiction to gizmos.
I also have the multiprotocol module and it is awesome. That thing works on almost anything if you have the time to go through them all! Now for the batteries the tanks are totally fine to just hot swap, the issue is low voltage. Remember here in the US safety is absolute #1 priority, even over performance.... out of the box anyways
If someone wants to swap I'll help them via email or PM, but I can't support it just yet for the masses. I am all about lipos trust me, I have a stable of 35ish 4S lipos that stay with me almost everywhere I go. Here at work we have 4-6 chargers going at all times with everything from NICD to LIFE batteries going testing both chargers and batteries. I treat them well and even abuse the poo out of them and personally the only issues I have had have been from damages I caused in crashes or from over discharging. I've only had a few fires from over discharging over the last few years, I would say 5 or so. I do fly 10-20 hours a week competitively and I also work at a RC company as well so I am pretty familiar with them and agree with you totally they are better performing batteries and when taken care of they are just as safe..... However you would be surprised at a lot of the things I see EVERY day. I'm not joking, people plug anything into anything, leave batteries on the charger while they go to vacation, make poorly made "adapter" cables so they can charge with the battery in (oh and the awesomeness that occurs from that), testing how deep they can drive it before it turns off, taking cases off stuff, and a ton of things I can't share lol. Most of it is just pretty funny but occasionally you see some crazy stuff. Also yes I have seen a few NIMH packs explode and I even get paid to make some explode too I also agree with you on the 18650 route. I actually just recently purchased those Znter 18650 batteries with the USB port on the 18650 itself so you don't need to have a separate charger. Quite a nice feature actually, I have yet to test the limits of the cell or if there are protections built in, I just recently got it and tore it apart. The TP4056 is a great cell charger, I know which one you are talking about, I love that chip
I use those over the crappy standard USB chargers they give you with stuff, at least the TP4056 you can trust and it is cheap as dirt. I am surprised you run your lipos down that low, anything under like 3.3ish is pretty dangerous for me, but then again I also lean on the safety side for batteries.
I never had much luck with TANKERx myself, it seemed like a good concept back then, but I would be hesitant to flash my whole TX for a tank if you know what I mean. Especially if you are purchasing the 9X/Taranis you want to run OpenTX and the latest nightlies or at least a stable release to get updates and such. The one for the multimodule is awesome, not sure which module you have but if you have the one with the USB port and no knobs on the back you can control it 100% from inside the Taranis. I also have a lot of other options on the build and would be hesitant to unflash all of that.
Now one more thing for the heat, you got to remember it is in a hot warehouse in FL, temperatures can get in excess of 120 degrees sometimes during the weekends and I would have to store them separate from the tanks. Then there is added costs to shipping lipos (that honestly is the 2nd reason we haven't moved over yet) which is absolutely ridiculous. Once I get a lipo with a built in temp sensor and lvc I'll be the first to bring that to the tanks, in fact that isn't a difficult thing to do but the performance gain would be minimal on the current generation of tanks. That doesn't mean I'm not looking though.....
I think you are going to fit in perfectly here my friend
Welcome to the forums! Oh and MY DOG IS THE BEST. Sorry. Zeus is a solid black 95lb German Shepherd and is my loyal and very highly trained buddy. He even comes to work with me a few days a week. 
Ignore the ugly interior and dog seat cover, I'm in the middle of a full interior rebuild....
07-13-2018 | 08:14 AM
#28
My Feedback: (1)
What bugs me about my LiPo batteries is all the information/disinformation out there about them. I am fully aware they can catch fire if handled improperly. I bought a set of them for my 1/6th scale tanks last year. What concerns me is that they are not that old and have only been charged a few times, but are "puffing up". One seems to be more puffed than the other.
This is them: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fl...-30c-xt90.html
They seem to run fine and I can't tell if there is any capacity loss since it seemed to puff up after the first charge. I charged them both on a iMAX B6 RC Lipo NiMh NiCD Battery Balance Charger at what I thought was low amps (1A). The balance plug was used during charging. I read that the puffing isn't a good thing. They are 6S as the tanks were originally spec'd to run on 24V. I would prefer not to start my 1/6th scale KV-2 on fire by using a battery at risk, but I also don't want to go back to 12V lead acid batteries which is what was in it before. I was drawing so much current from the smaller 12V 7AH batteries that the cases were warped and bulged from the heat.
This is them: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fl...-30c-xt90.html
They seem to run fine and I can't tell if there is any capacity loss since it seemed to puff up after the first charge. I charged them both on a iMAX B6 RC Lipo NiMh NiCD Battery Balance Charger at what I thought was low amps (1A). The balance plug was used during charging. I read that the puffing isn't a good thing. They are 6S as the tanks were originally spec'd to run on 24V. I would prefer not to start my 1/6th scale KV-2 on fire by using a battery at risk, but I also don't want to go back to 12V lead acid batteries which is what was in it before. I was drawing so much current from the smaller 12V 7AH batteries that the cases were warped and bulged from the heat.
07-13-2018 | 08:29 AM
#29
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Well my dear sir,
Zeus looks more than competent at dodging the armoured assaults you undoubtedly subject him to.
Mine chase the tank and run away as soon as it moves and cannot understand where the fly specks come from.
I have found that the confusion around radios seems to be one of the biggest issues in all areas of the RC hobby, not just tanks.
Since I put my hand up I have begun to realise what a can of worms I’ve spilled in my lap.
The multi protocol module is most definitely not the solution but is an incredible tool for us old farts to solve everyone else’s problems.
To quote Steve Jobs at the unveiling if the original iMac
“I love standards, there are just so many of them” “Here’s USB”…
And history was written.
I think a basic how to on a standard computer controlled handset and some basic what is wheretofores of binding and even just assigning channels and endpoints seem to be a challenge that needs to be addressed.
You are respected in this community and as such I think your endorsement carries weight.
But to endorse is become responsible. Not where I’d like to be.
I see a good 10ch handset with solid firmware and easy availability of PPM,iBus & sBus receivers.
Then the users can write a good model profile export and anyone coming in has a configured setup.
The issue is very few people can even understand the concept of a PC/handset interface and this I see a first step not only for tankers but entry level fliers as well.
I have been looking at some of the Tank controller units and I am so blown away by OpenPanzer that I bought 2 and some ESC's of several varieties and just cannot seem to find the money for an appropriate sound unit. Making things work is one thing but I have a 24Ch recording and edit suite so when it comes down to it I’d rather buy a new microphone.
I’m thinking of throwing a hundred or so at OP though, if it will help getting his daughter boards to market.
I won’t even go to the battery conversation.
The world has moved us all to LiPos and we’ll just work with it.
If you’d like to buy some 27mhz radios to go with your Nickel cells then I’ve got a selection of hardly used units.
I am so sorry but I just cannot fix stupid.
Zeus looks more than competent at dodging the armoured assaults you undoubtedly subject him to.
Mine chase the tank and run away as soon as it moves and cannot understand where the fly specks come from.
I have found that the confusion around radios seems to be one of the biggest issues in all areas of the RC hobby, not just tanks.
Since I put my hand up I have begun to realise what a can of worms I’ve spilled in my lap.
The multi protocol module is most definitely not the solution but is an incredible tool for us old farts to solve everyone else’s problems.
To quote Steve Jobs at the unveiling if the original iMac
“I love standards, there are just so many of them” “Here’s USB”…
And history was written.
I think a basic how to on a standard computer controlled handset and some basic what is wheretofores of binding and even just assigning channels and endpoints seem to be a challenge that needs to be addressed.
You are respected in this community and as such I think your endorsement carries weight.
But to endorse is become responsible. Not where I’d like to be.
I see a good 10ch handset with solid firmware and easy availability of PPM,iBus & sBus receivers.
Then the users can write a good model profile export and anyone coming in has a configured setup.
The issue is very few people can even understand the concept of a PC/handset interface and this I see a first step not only for tankers but entry level fliers as well.
I have been looking at some of the Tank controller units and I am so blown away by OpenPanzer that I bought 2 and some ESC's of several varieties and just cannot seem to find the money for an appropriate sound unit. Making things work is one thing but I have a 24Ch recording and edit suite so when it comes down to it I’d rather buy a new microphone.
I’m thinking of throwing a hundred or so at OP though, if it will help getting his daughter boards to market.
I won’t even go to the battery conversation.
The world has moved us all to LiPos and we’ll just work with it.
If you’d like to buy some 27mhz radios to go with your Nickel cells then I’ve got a selection of hardly used units.
I am so sorry but I just cannot fix stupid.
Last edited by Brycevr; 07-13-2018 at 09:30 AM.
07-13-2018 | 08:41 AM
#30
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What bugs me about my LiPo batteries is all the information/disinformation out there about them. I am fully aware they can catch fire if handled improperly. I bought a set of them for my 1/6th scale tanks last year. What concerns me is that they are not that old and have only been charged a few times, but are "puffing up". One seems to be more puffed than the other.
This is them: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fl...-30c-xt90.html
They seem to run fine and I can't tell if there is any capacity loss since it seemed to puff up after the first charge. I charged them both on a iMAX B6 RC Lipo NiMh NiCD Battery Balance Charger at what I thought was low amps (1A). The balance plug was used during charging. I read that the puffing isn't a good thing. They are 6S as the tanks were originally spec'd to run on 24V. I would prefer not to start my 1/6th scale KV-2 on fire by using a battery at risk, but I also don't want to go back to 12V lead acid batteries which is what was in it before. I was drawing so much current from the smaller 12V 7AH batteries that the cases were warped and bulged from the heat.
This is them: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-fl...-30c-xt90.html
They seem to run fine and I can't tell if there is any capacity loss since it seemed to puff up after the first charge. I charged them both on a iMAX B6 RC Lipo NiMh NiCD Battery Balance Charger at what I thought was low amps (1A). The balance plug was used during charging. I read that the puffing isn't a good thing. They are 6S as the tanks were originally spec'd to run on 24V. I would prefer not to start my 1/6th scale KV-2 on fire by using a battery at risk, but I also don't want to go back to 12V lead acid batteries which is what was in it before. I was drawing so much current from the smaller 12V 7AH batteries that the cases were warped and bulged from the heat.
A "packet" lipo will puff when discharged heavily.
This is not usually a bad thing, if they swell where the covers are overly tight then swapping out the cell might be wise. You don't have to write off the whole pack for one poor cell and using a balance charger is a good idea.
You have to switch the charger into balance mode, just plugging in the lead does not balance the cells.
As those packs represent a significant investment I'd revisit the balance mode again.
Dump the packs to 3.3v/cell
Put them on the charger and select the LiPo charge option.
When you see the usual select V and A press the + or - key without the flashing Volts and Amps and it will cycle through several LiPo charging options
usually the first is the balance option.
I'd do a full balance and dump then with a slight load, a lap around the block with some pause should do it and then recharge with balance. Maybe shoot some slow moving doggies on the way.
A balance charge will often take 2 or 3 times as long, don't sweat it but just ask you doggy to keep an eye on it.
If you don't have a doggie don't trust your wife to do it, do it yourself and set the timer on you iPhone for about 15 minutes and you'll see the changes. On most chargers pressing the up and down will give a per cell reading if you'd like to see it.
A stop watch is your friend, without definitive data our perceptions will distort facts.
Get facts and time everything, there is no other way of empirical judgement.
To be honest I would have gone for a LiFePo4 battery solution.
The weapon of choice for Solar and wind systems and far more stable than even Pb packs
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-32650-3-2V-5500mah-rechargeable-Li-ion-battery-32650-LiFePO4-5C-discharge-battery-for-Backup/32868030150.html? See if this works.
I use a similar cell set for my motorcycle battery and the battery in my 18hp Ride on Mower so there is no doubt they can deliver enough current but I would make a series/parallel pack and you'll never buy a battery again.
Don't worry too much about the swelling, but never charge your packs whilst they in the vehicle.
Hope this helps and please let me know how you go.
Happy Doggy Stalking.
Bill
Last edited by Brycevr; 07-13-2018 at 10:24 AM.
07-13-2018 | 09:49 AM
#34
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I also agree with you on the 18650 route. I actually just recently purchased those Znter 18650 batteries with the USB port on the 18650 itself so you don't need to have a separate charger. Quite a nice feature actually, I have yet to test the limits of the cell or if there are protections built in, I just recently got it and tore it apart. The TP4056 is a great cell charger, I know which one you are talking about, I love that chip I use those over the crappy standard USB chargers they give you with stuff, at least the TP4056 you can trust and it is cheap as dirt.
I am surprised you run your lipos down that low, anything under like 3.3ish is pretty dangerous for me, but then again I also lean on the safety side for batteries.
I use those over the crappy standard USB chargers they give you with stuff, at least the TP4056 you can trust and it is cheap as dirt.I am surprised you run your lipos down that low, anything under like 3.3ish is pretty dangerous for me, but then again I also lean on the safety side for batteries.
I never had much luck with TANKERx myself, it seemed like a good concept back then, but I would be hesitant to flash my whole TX for a tank if you know what I mean. Especially if you are purchasing the 9X/Taranis you want to run OpenTX and the latest nightlies or at least a stable release to get updates and such. The one for the multimodule is awesome, not sure which module you have but if you have the one with the USB port and no knobs on the back you can control it 100% from inside the Taranis. I also have a lot of other options on the build and would be hesitant to unflash all of that
I think you are going to fit in perfectly here my friend Welcome to the forums! Oh and MY DOG IS THE BEST. Sorry. Zeus is a solid black 95lb German Shepherd and is my loyal and very highly trained buddy. He even comes to work with me a few days a week.
I think you are going to fit in perfectly here my friend
Welcome to the forums! Oh and MY DOG IS THE BEST. Sorry. Zeus is a solid black 95lb German Shepherd and is my loyal and very highly trained buddy. He even comes to work with me a few days a week.My tankers comment was as I mentioned a good idea ahead of it's time.
I see a radio that we can write profiles and exchange them as the essence of the exercise, not a complete interface.
Most people with over 3 brain cells can transpose the channel naming into "tankspeak".
Last edited by Brycevr; 07-13-2018 at 10:27 AM.
07-13-2018 | 10:17 AM
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I think in both of our interests you as a vendor and my as an obsessive tragic is to find simple and clean solutions for the new tankers to come in and be able to have their own little backyard battles among friends.
A good basic configuration is above any metal tracked 390 equipped scale monster.
Without new people the hobby will die. How well we bring people in will effect whether it grows or dies.
I've seen any number of fantastic classes destroyed by fanatics. I took my 1/10th scale 235mm pan car out on a bicycle velodrome a few months ago and clocked over 90MP/H for 5 laps average. YO! but there is nowhere in this country that I can race that car anymore. It's a shelf queen and will always be. I threw about $100 in tyres and I couldn't say what the drivetrain cost but I only had that one chance. Getting access to an Olympic velodrome is not easy, you just can't show up and book a few hours believe me. Now the motor is in a Monster truck and the tyres will split and perish on the shelf.
Shame.
But,
What a HOOT!
Catering to the Full metal scale demon is fine but there is no growth and no excitement there.
I'd like to see some set, small scale scenarios that everyone drives and submit video for challenges.
Arena is X x Y and the obstacles are here, here and here and you do capture the flag. A standard layout with the variations by a roll of dice.
Such a magnificent platform, as I said it's closer to chess than RC but we can stretch into some incredible scale details and bring significant moments of history to life it cannot possibly have a down side.
I'm all for scale but I just bought another 2 Bulldogs and am going to do a Matt black with gold wheels and chrome features...
MadMax meets WWII.
JUST BECAUSE I CAN and that is why I do what I do.
I might even see that 40km/h from a tank.
2x 550 brushless and a steel geared box, plastic tracks, ball raced road wheels and sleeved idlers. That should do it. Add 4S2P 4Ah 16v pack and I'll either shred the tracks, not be able to control it and barrel roll or actually get to terminal velocity. Sounds like fun to me.
Yep, I'm not completely insane, but I'm trying my hardest.
A good basic configuration is above any metal tracked 390 equipped scale monster.
Without new people the hobby will die. How well we bring people in will effect whether it grows or dies.
I've seen any number of fantastic classes destroyed by fanatics. I took my 1/10th scale 235mm pan car out on a bicycle velodrome a few months ago and clocked over 90MP/H for 5 laps average. YO! but there is nowhere in this country that I can race that car anymore. It's a shelf queen and will always be. I threw about $100 in tyres and I couldn't say what the drivetrain cost but I only had that one chance. Getting access to an Olympic velodrome is not easy, you just can't show up and book a few hours believe me. Now the motor is in a Monster truck and the tyres will split and perish on the shelf.
Shame.
But,
What a HOOT!
Catering to the Full metal scale demon is fine but there is no growth and no excitement there.
I'd like to see some set, small scale scenarios that everyone drives and submit video for challenges.
Arena is X x Y and the obstacles are here, here and here and you do capture the flag. A standard layout with the variations by a roll of dice.
Such a magnificent platform, as I said it's closer to chess than RC but we can stretch into some incredible scale details and bring significant moments of history to life it cannot possibly have a down side.
I'm all for scale but I just bought another 2 Bulldogs and am going to do a Matt black with gold wheels and chrome features...
MadMax meets WWII.
JUST BECAUSE I CAN and that is why I do what I do.
I might even see that 40km/h from a tank.
2x 550 brushless and a steel geared box, plastic tracks, ball raced road wheels and sleeved idlers. That should do it. Add 4S2P 4Ah 16v pack and I'll either shred the tracks, not be able to control it and barrel roll or actually get to terminal velocity. Sounds like fun to me.
Yep, I'm not completely insane, but I'm trying my hardest.
Last edited by Brycevr; 07-13-2018 at 11:01 AM.
07-13-2018 | 10:38 AM
#36
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And as we haven't finished all the beer and it's only 4:30 AM here I am thinking of the FS-i6S and writing an OpenPanzer profile that I can share.
Also a standard RC5HL profile for using the abilities of the subtle control and feel to a standard equipped vehicle whist using only a standard TX-18.
Just using a tank with a good radio is a different level.
Also a standard RC5HL profile for using the abilities of the subtle control and feel to a standard equipped vehicle whist using only a standard TX-18.
Just using a tank with a good radio is a different level.
07-13-2018 | 12:02 PM
#37
Amateurs. Melik and Manya. Aren't they cute little collies? 2.4 meters, tip of nose to tip of tail. Almost the last of old style collies, not the little divan pillows so popular today. Melik's son Aleksandr is bigger than he is, or I should say was. Melik, the black, passed away last late fall at the age of 16. His brother, Manya, passed away in late fall of '15. All three were trained by VDV for guard duty. Push your luck and I'll post Sophia, our blue.
07-13-2018 | 12:24 PM
#38
Well my dear sir,
Zeus looks more than competent at dodging the armoured assaults you undoubtedly subject him to.
Mine chase the tank and run away as soon as it moves and cannot understand where the fly specks come from.
I have found that the confusion around radios seems to be one of the biggest issues in all areas of the RC hobby, not just tanks.
Since I put my hand up I have begun to realise what a can of worms I’ve spilled in my lap.
The multi protocol module is most definitely not the solution but is an incredible tool for us old farts to solve everyone else’s problems.
To quote Steve Jobs at the unveiling if the original iMac
“I love standards, there are just so many of them” “Here’s USB”…
And history was written.
I think a basic how to on a standard computer controlled handset and some basic what is wheretofores of binding and even just assigning channels and endpoints seem to be a challenge that needs to be addressed.
You are respected in this community and as such I think your endorsement carries weight.
But to endorse is become responsible. Not where I’d like to be.
I see a good 10ch handset with solid firmware and easy availability of PPM,iBus & sBus receivers.
Then the users can write a good model profile export and anyone coming in has a configured setup.
The issue is very few people can even understand the concept of a PC/handset interface and this I see a first step not only for tankers but entry level fliers as well.
I have been looking at some of the Tank controller units and I am so blown away by OpenPanzer that I bought 2 and some ESC's of several varieties and just cannot seem to find the money for an appropriate sound unit. Making things work is one thing but I have a 24Ch recording and edit suite so when it comes down to it I’d rather buy a new microphone.
I’m thinking of throwing a hundred or so at OP though, if it will help getting his daughter boards to market.
I won’t even go to the battery conversation.
The world has moved us all to LiPos and we’ll just work with it.
If you’d like to buy some 27mhz radios to go with your Nickel cells then I’ve got a selection of hardly used units.
I am so sorry but I just cannot fix stupid.
Zeus looks more than competent at dodging the armoured assaults you undoubtedly subject him to.
Mine chase the tank and run away as soon as it moves and cannot understand where the fly specks come from.
I have found that the confusion around radios seems to be one of the biggest issues in all areas of the RC hobby, not just tanks.
Since I put my hand up I have begun to realise what a can of worms I’ve spilled in my lap.
The multi protocol module is most definitely not the solution but is an incredible tool for us old farts to solve everyone else’s problems.
To quote Steve Jobs at the unveiling if the original iMac
“I love standards, there are just so many of them” “Here’s USB”…
And history was written.
I think a basic how to on a standard computer controlled handset and some basic what is wheretofores of binding and even just assigning channels and endpoints seem to be a challenge that needs to be addressed.
You are respected in this community and as such I think your endorsement carries weight.
But to endorse is become responsible. Not where I’d like to be.
I see a good 10ch handset with solid firmware and easy availability of PPM,iBus & sBus receivers.
Then the users can write a good model profile export and anyone coming in has a configured setup.
The issue is very few people can even understand the concept of a PC/handset interface and this I see a first step not only for tankers but entry level fliers as well.
I have been looking at some of the Tank controller units and I am so blown away by OpenPanzer that I bought 2 and some ESC's of several varieties and just cannot seem to find the money for an appropriate sound unit. Making things work is one thing but I have a 24Ch recording and edit suite so when it comes down to it I’d rather buy a new microphone.
I’m thinking of throwing a hundred or so at OP though, if it will help getting his daughter boards to market.
I won’t even go to the battery conversation.
The world has moved us all to LiPos and we’ll just work with it.
If you’d like to buy some 27mhz radios to go with your Nickel cells then I’ve got a selection of hardly used units.
I am so sorry but I just cannot fix stupid.
I do have a long range tank project and have got it a few hundred meters but I haven't managed to go much farther yet, saving that for later in the year when it is cooler.Oh Zeus does not like ground vehicles, he will chase any RC car/truck but the tanks and anything flying he seems to ignore. He has been with me for around 8 years now. In fact he is my 4th German Shepherd I've had and the best one so far. In fact if the car is small enough and you flip it over he will go and get it and bring it back haha.
And as we haven't finished all the beer and it's only 4:30 AM here I am thinking of the FS-i6S and writing an OpenPanzer profile that I can share.
Also a standard RC5HL profile for using the abilities of the subtle control and feel to a standard equipped vehicle whist using only a standard TX-18.
Just using a tank with a good radio is a different level.
Also a standard RC5HL profile for using the abilities of the subtle control and feel to a standard equipped vehicle whist using only a standard TX-18.
Just using a tank with a good radio is a different level.
Oh last time I seen Kevin from RCTA here at the office he said the RC2HL was discontinued but I did see he made a new RC2HL lite which is only for the older versions. I do have a few he made for us but never produced, the RC2TG as well as a few other things from him. In fact Kevin and I used to talk a lot, I should hit him up and say hi and see what he has new for us all
I even had a few of the good Comodo's that eliminated the track recoil even while driving up until recently, I think Crius stole my last one! I do have to say though, at 2.8V my lipos wouldn't even power my vehicles
Heck even at 3.0V my VTXs start fading and I run the best ones you can get (the Unify HV Pro). I do purchase roughly 10-20 a month though so I guess I could be a bit over cautious with them. One of my group members just had a big fire that burned half his house down because he decided to keep his lipos in the garage like a derp.... Luckily he had fire insurance but still.... It always helps to never buy those junk Turnigy batteries too, those and the Bolt line of batteries have to be the WORST batteries I have ever seen. I either run Thunder Power, Gens Ace/Tattu, Hyperion, CNHL, or RDQ batteries. If I run an off brand I make sure to know who the manufacturer is so I can know the true specs. Having bossman here helps with that as there are only about 5 or 6 decent lipo factories in China atm. I personally like Greprow which is Gens Ace/Tattu's supplier, I just sat down and had a chat with them in April while I was in Beijing actually.
07-13-2018 | 12:31 PM
#39
Amateurs. Melik and Manya. Aren't they cute little collies? 2.4 meters, tip of nose to tip of tail. Almost the last of old style collies, not the little divan pillows so popular today. Melik's son Aleksandr is bigger than he is, or I should say was. Melik, the black, passed away last late fall at the age of 16. His brother, Manya, passed away in late fall of '15. All three were trained by VDV for guard duty. Push your luck and I'll post Sophia, our blue.
How about this one?? Zeus and my neighbor's service dog Anna. They are boyfriend and girlfriend forever, she is a lab mix but they have the same hair color and even texture. I also have a small black puppy that we will all agree is the BEST once you see this derp creature.
08-01-2018 | 02:35 AM
#40
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I've been a bit occupied...
You thinks tanks are a fuss..
Meet hercules he was the only survivor of the 3 in the litter.
A loss or 2 is normal but she is just not a good mother.
He was born last week amongst a disaster of prep. The litter was expected late this week so I've been backpeddaling for a few days.
Last edited by Brycevr; 08-01-2018 at 02:39 AM.
08-01-2018 | 03:18 AM
#42
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Are you using OpenTX for your multiprotocol? If not you really should check it out. It is a huge improvement over the first generation one where you had to manually change it on the back. I don't use it too much anymore as I recently sold my spare tx and I use CRSF for all my stuff these days. However on my spare TX coming soon (I want that FRSky X-Lite) I'll probably put another back on it for work stuff or toy grade testing. CRSF is a heck of a protocol and much better all around than anything out right now. Unfortunately only CRSF's Sbus is supported so it doesn't make sense to spend $40-45 on a long range receiver yet I do have a long range tank project and have got it a few hundred meters but I haven't managed to go much farther yet, saving that for later in the year when it is cooler.
Oh Zeus does not like ground vehicles, he will chase any RC car/truck but the tanks and anything flying he seems to ignore. He has been with me for around 8 years now. In fact he is my 4th German Shepherd I've had and the best one so far. In fact if the car is small enough and you flip it over he will go and get it and bring it back haha.
OP is absolutely awesome. There isn't much you can't do really. I worked the main OP dev testing that for about a year before the public release and loved every bit of it. In fact there is nothing stopping you from making both an airsoft AND infrared tank at the same time with OP, I had all kinds of special stuff setup on it like FPV, airsoft barrel recoil + Tamiya/Taigen/HL IR system, upgraded motors, 16 channel sbus support (and all 16ch used!), on the fly driving profiles, inertia and momentum on a pot, main motor and rotation speeds on a pot, full LED control, proportional smoke (before that was common like now), Sabertooth 30A motor controller, 4s lipo support, etc. It is hands down my favorite controller. It does the most and is pretty simple to use. For now he is working on a sound card but you can use the Taigen one for a temp or go all out for a Benedini.
Oh last time I seen Kevin from RCTA here at the office he said the RC2HL was discontinued but I did see he made a new RC2HL lite which is only for the older versions. I do have a few he made for us but never produced, the RC2TG as well as a few other things from him. In fact Kevin and I used to talk a lot, I should hit him up and say hi and see what he has new for us all I even had a few of the good Comodo's that eliminated the track recoil even while driving up until recently, I think Crius stole my last one!
I do have to say though, at 2.8V my lipos wouldn't even power my vehicles Heck even at 3.0V my VTXs start fading and I run the best ones you can get (the Unify HV Pro). I do purchase roughly 10-20 a month though so I guess I could be a bit over cautious with them. One of my group members just had a big fire that burned half his house down because he decided to keep his lipos in the garage like a derp.... Luckily he had fire insurance but still.... It always helps to never buy those junk Turnigy batteries too, those and the Bolt line of batteries have to be the WORST batteries I have ever seen. I either run Thunder Power, Gens Ace/Tattu, Hyperion, CNHL, or RDQ batteries. If I run an off brand I make sure to know who the manufacturer is so I can know the true specs. Having bossman here helps with that as there are only about 5 or 6 decent lipo factories in China atm. I personally like Greprow which is Gens Ace/Tattu's supplier, I just sat down and had a chat with them in April while I was in Beijing actually.
I do have a long range tank project and have got it a few hundred meters but I haven't managed to go much farther yet, saving that for later in the year when it is cooler.Oh Zeus does not like ground vehicles, he will chase any RC car/truck but the tanks and anything flying he seems to ignore. He has been with me for around 8 years now. In fact he is my 4th German Shepherd I've had and the best one so far. In fact if the car is small enough and you flip it over he will go and get it and bring it back haha.
OP is absolutely awesome. There isn't much you can't do really. I worked the main OP dev testing that for about a year before the public release and loved every bit of it. In fact there is nothing stopping you from making both an airsoft AND infrared tank at the same time with OP, I had all kinds of special stuff setup on it like FPV, airsoft barrel recoil + Tamiya/Taigen/HL IR system, upgraded motors, 16 channel sbus support (and all 16ch used!), on the fly driving profiles, inertia and momentum on a pot, main motor and rotation speeds on a pot, full LED control, proportional smoke (before that was common like now), Sabertooth 30A motor controller, 4s lipo support, etc. It is hands down my favorite controller. It does the most and is pretty simple to use. For now he is working on a sound card but you can use the Taigen one for a temp or go all out for a Benedini.
Oh last time I seen Kevin from RCTA here at the office he said the RC2HL was discontinued but I did see he made a new RC2HL lite which is only for the older versions. I do have a few he made for us but never produced, the RC2TG as well as a few other things from him. In fact Kevin and I used to talk a lot, I should hit him up and say hi and see what he has new for us all
I even had a few of the good Comodo's that eliminated the track recoil even while driving up until recently, I think Crius stole my last one!I do have to say though, at 2.8V my lipos wouldn't even power my vehicles
Heck even at 3.0V my VTXs start fading and I run the best ones you can get (the Unify HV Pro). I do purchase roughly 10-20 a month though so I guess I could be a bit over cautious with them. One of my group members just had a big fire that burned half his house down because he decided to keep his lipos in the garage like a derp.... Luckily he had fire insurance but still.... It always helps to never buy those junk Turnigy batteries too, those and the Bolt line of batteries have to be the WORST batteries I have ever seen. I either run Thunder Power, Gens Ace/Tattu, Hyperion, CNHL, or RDQ batteries. If I run an off brand I make sure to know who the manufacturer is so I can know the true specs. Having bossman here helps with that as there are only about 5 or 6 decent lipo factories in China atm. I personally like Greprow which is Gens Ace/Tattu's supplier, I just sat down and had a chat with them in April while I was in Beijing actually.I have used ERx to date. but don't mind surfing another protocol.
My go-to radio is a 9xr with ERx but I have two 9xrPros as well.
I have a AFHDS and an AFHDS-2a module as well as an adapted module from my original 9x (AFHDS).
Of course I have Multi-Protocol that I've barely had time to sniff at this point.
I've got some Spectrum stuff for the cars and some vintage 27mhz and 40Mhz that still works so why toss it?
Just because there's a new system doesn't make the old one any less useable. With over 300 working models you tend to keep them in sets with genuine kit. If I have to, then a swap of the receiver is a minute or two anyway.
I also have some vintage kit and a Taranis that I haven't had the time to take out of the box.
You most understand that I've been doing RC for nearly 40 years and so I've moved through every "revolution" and still drive, fly or play with whatever is in my hands right now.
My 9xr kit is working so I haven't really found the need to begin a new learning curve when I'd really just prefer to play.
My only LRS efforts have been open LRS 433mhz and my video limited me to about 2 miles (3km).
I'm looking at a higher power vtx (2w) but I'll run close to the law with the power and frequency.
The RC2HL lite is now an RC5HL lite and about 3 of my tanks run them.
This has to be the best solution for anyone running a few tanks and one decent handset.
I just LOVE them.
He has begun production again and I'll highly recommend them for anyone who doesn't need a high end solution.
An old tank with a few cables and a 6ch hobby radio and you have a viable tank setup.
For $20 and a receiver how cool is it to bring awn old unit back to life.
I won't go into the battery thing anymore. I surf lipo's like a wizard and as I said I use LiFePo4 for my quad bike and vintage Cafe racer with no issues.
I still hold the rescued 18650 mod is the best battery solution for scale armour. We don't pull enough current to need fancy solutions.
My Armour solutions are towards neatness and reliability.
Believe me I own RC kit that pulls 80+ Amps at full tilt boogie and things get seriously hot at that end of the game.
I have a 1.8M Spitfire that will pull nearly 100A on a vertical with 6s, 22V so about 3.5HP in real terms. In a scale airframe that's about what most people see from their lawnmower. I've got 7hp 32cc engines in some of the 5th scale stuf,f so tanks are all about precision, and reaction. any power is about immediate response not speed. This is why the shift to aftermarket handsets is so essential. Subtly is the essence of Armour control, not power. I found that 380 motors are better than 390's because they have better low speed control. I set up a ver intricate proving ground with target positions and paths for precision and found that 380's were about 40% faster because I didn't have to make corrections.
There it is, but the results in anything I do are what the stopwatch says not some "feel". 390's are too aggressive and seem to overshoot or drop traction on one track too easily and rotate. I went back to new 380's and did the water bed-in and matched them. I'm lucky that I have a dyno. (I also have a 1/25 wind tunnel for aero stuff) .
I'm just too obsessive about everything.
I bought 2 OpenPanzer boards and have been as excited as teenager on prom night.
This is AWSOME kit. It's extensibility and simplicity in the same breath.
I won't even look at other units. I was going to buy a Clarke and pretty well one of each of the similar units but once I got it on my bench I just continually smiled in awe of the flexibility and potential. Most importantly the exceptional software interface.
I'm doing several different Blutooth modules and hope to report soon
Yo! dude I've been busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking contest.
Puppies and real life it just gets to be too much sometimes.
Welcome Hercules into the world.
He was the only winner of the 3 in the litter but that's the way it goes sometimes. Last year my Bella had 7 lovely sprogs.
Smooth roads to you all
B
Last edited by Brycevr; 08-01-2018 at 04:18 AM.
08-01-2018 | 03:42 AM
#43
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Here'''''''''s....................
Dr. Winston O'Boogie,
His mission is to interfere with all my hobbies.
He ate a beautiful 1/8 scale Balsa spitfire that I'd put over 200 hours on
I guess he just liked the crunch of balsa and solartex???
Now you know why I hunt my doggies with Armour
B
Dr. Winston O'Boogie,
His mission is to interfere with all my hobbies.
He ate a beautiful 1/8 scale Balsa spitfire that I'd put over 200 hours on
I guess he just liked the crunch of balsa and solartex???
Now you know why I hunt my doggies with Armour
B
