Originally Posted by
Imex-Erik
Are you using OpenTX for your multiprotocol? If not you really should check it out. It is a huge improvement over the first generation one where you had to manually change it on the back. I don't use it too much anymore as I recently sold my spare tx and I use CRSF for all my stuff these days. However on my spare TX coming soon (I want that FRSky X-Lite) I'll probably put another back on it for work stuff or toy grade testing. CRSF is a heck of a protocol and much better all around than anything out right now. Unfortunately only CRSF's Sbus is supported so it doesn't make sense to spend $40-45 on a long range receiver yet
I do have a long range tank project and have got it a few hundred meters but I haven't managed to go much farther yet, saving that for later in the year when it is cooler.
Oh Zeus does not like ground vehicles, he will chase any RC car/truck but the tanks and anything flying he seems to ignore. He has been with me for around 8 years now. In fact he is my 4th German Shepherd I've had and the best one so far. In fact if the car is small enough and you flip it over he will go and get it and bring it back haha.
OP is absolutely awesome. There isn't much you can't do really. I worked the main OP dev testing that for about a year before the public release and loved every bit of it. In fact there is nothing stopping you from making both an airsoft AND infrared tank at the same time with OP, I had all kinds of special stuff setup on it like FPV, airsoft barrel recoil + Tamiya/Taigen/HL IR system, upgraded motors, 16 channel sbus support (and all 16ch used!), on the fly driving profiles, inertia and momentum on a pot, main motor and rotation speeds on a pot, full LED control, proportional smoke (before that was common like now), Sabertooth 30A motor controller, 4s lipo support, etc. It is hands down my favorite controller. It does the most and is pretty simple to use. For now he is working on a sound card but you can use the Taigen one for a temp or go all out for a Benedini.
Oh last time I seen Kevin from RCTA here at the office he said the RC2HL was discontinued but I did see he made a new RC2HL lite which is only for the older versions. I do have a few he made for us but never produced, the RC2TG as well as a few other things from him. In fact Kevin and I used to talk a lot, I should hit him up and say hi and see what he has new for us all
I even had a few of the good Comodo's that eliminated the track recoil even while driving up until recently, I think Crius stole my last one!
I do have to say though, at 2.8V my lipos wouldn't even power my vehicles
Heck even at 3.0V my VTXs start fading and I run the best ones you can get (the Unify HV Pro). I do purchase roughly 10-20 a month though so I guess I could be a bit over cautious with them. One of my group members just had a big fire that burned half his house down because he decided to keep his lipos in the garage like a derp.... Luckily he had fire insurance but still.... It always helps to never buy those junk Turnigy batteries too, those and the Bolt line of batteries have to be the WORST batteries I have ever seen. I either run Thunder Power, Gens Ace/Tattu, Hyperion, CNHL, or RDQ batteries. If I run an off brand I make sure to know who the manufacturer is so I can know the true specs. Having bossman here helps with that as there are only about 5 or 6 decent lipo factories in China atm. I personally like Greprow which is Gens Ace/Tattu's supplier, I just sat down and had a chat with them in April while I was in Beijing actually.
Let us begin with.
I have used ERx to date. but don't mind surfing another protocol.
My go-to radio is a 9xr with ERx but I have two 9xrPros as well.
I have a AFHDS and an AFHDS-2a module as well as an adapted module from my original 9x (AFHDS).
Of course I have Multi-Protocol that I've barely had time to sniff at this point.
I've got some Spectrum stuff for the cars and some vintage 27mhz and 40Mhz that still works so why toss it?
Just because there's a new system doesn't make the old one any less useable. With over 300 working models you tend to keep them in sets with genuine kit. If I have to, then a swap of the receiver is a minute or two anyway.
I also have some vintage kit and a Taranis that I haven't had the time to take out of the box.
You most understand that I've been doing RC for nearly 40 years and so I've moved through every "revolution" and still drive, fly or play with whatever is in my hands right now.
My 9xr kit is working so I haven't really found the need to begin a new learning curve when I'd really just prefer to play.
My only LRS efforts have been open LRS 433mhz and my video limited me to about 2 miles (3km).
I'm looking at a higher power vtx (2w) but I'll run close to the law with the power and frequency.
The RC2HL lite is now an RC5HL lite and about 3 of my tanks run them.
This has to be the best solution for anyone running a few tanks and one decent handset.
I just LOVE them.
He has begun production again and I'll highly recommend them for anyone who doesn't need a high end solution.
An old tank with a few cables and a 6ch hobby radio and you have a viable tank setup.
For $20 and a receiver how cool is it to bring awn old unit back to life.
I won't go into the battery thing anymore. I surf lipo's like a wizard and as I said I use LiFePo4 for my quad bike and vintage Cafe racer with no issues.
I still hold the rescued 18650 mod is the best battery solution for scale armour. We don't pull enough current to need fancy solutions.
My Armour solutions are towards neatness and reliability.
Believe me I own RC kit that pulls 80+ Amps at full tilt boogie and things get seriously hot at that end of the game.
I have a 1.8M Spitfire that will pull nearly 100A on a vertical with 6s, 22V so about 3.5HP in real terms. In a scale airframe that's about what most people see from their lawnmower. I've got 7hp 32cc engines in some of the 5th scale stuf,f so tanks are all about precision, and reaction. any power is about immediate response not speed. This is why the shift to aftermarket handsets is so essential. Subtly is the essence of Armour control, not power. I found that 380 motors are better than 390's because they have better low speed control. I set up a ver intricate proving ground with target positions and paths for precision and found that 380's were about 40% faster because I didn't have to make corrections.
There it is, but the results in anything I do are what the stopwatch says not some "feel". 390's are too aggressive and seem to overshoot or drop traction on one track too easily and rotate. I went back to new 380's and did the water bed-in and matched them. I'm lucky that I have a dyno. (I also have a 1/25 wind tunnel for aero stuff) .
I'm just too obsessive about everything.
I bought 2 OpenPanzer boards and have been as excited as teenager on prom night.
This is AWSOME kit. It's extensibility and simplicity in the same breath.
I won't even look at other units. I was going to buy a Clarke and pretty well one of each of the similar units but once I got it on my bench I just continually smiled in awe of the flexibility and potential. Most importantly the exceptional software interface.
I'm doing several different Blutooth modules and hope to report soon
Yo! dude I've been busier than a one legged man in an arse kicking contest.
Puppies and real life it just gets to be too much sometimes.
Welcome Hercules into the world.
He was the only winner of the 3 in the litter but that's the way it goes sometimes. Last year my Bella had 7 lovely sprogs.
Smooth roads to you all
B