T. Green;
Welcome to jet’s. I’m glad to hear that you have the Boomarang. It is a good first jet. And more forgiving than the Eurosport. I am also glad to hear that it is going to be a single engine. You just don’t need the aggravation yet.
I think that you will find if you try the felt clunks with the CARF tanks, the clunk will go through the hole. JetTech is a supplier to CARF and an upgrade, just as the engines, radio equipment, etc. The felt clunk is made for CARF tanks. Or the CARF tanks are made for the clunk. Whichever way you want to look at it. Personally, I would just install the CARF tanks and not worry about them. I’m flying a CARF Viper and Lightning, both with CARF tanks. They both have a few hundred flights on them with no issues. The Viper I actually got in 2012. Both are in my picture gallery. The biggest trouble that you will have with any of the tanks, is having your fuel pump fill the tank at too high of a flow. This can and will blow the lines off inside and outside the tank. The other issue is cracking the tank, and it doesn’t matter which type of tank, both will do it.Make sure that you safety wire all of the fuel connections. Tie wrap is not tight enough. As far as filtering, the fuel can should have one, the UAT is another one prior to the pump and valves, and then there’s usually one after the pump prior to the engine. The felt clunk is just another filter prior to the UAT.
I hope that you have found someone to help you. I’m sure that you know you’re not supposed to fly them without the waiver. And, supposed to be on a buddy box. Bite your pride and do it. Just make sure that the guy can fly them, and has been instructing for awhile. Just because the club appoints him as the jet training officer, doesn’t mean he can fly or should be teaching. Flying large scale helps, if it is a heavy wing loaded, kit built warbird. If you have been flying 3-D, then you may have some issues. The reason for this, is that prop planes have a fake lift created by prop wash over the wings. This makes the plane fly and have flight control response. Jets on the other hand do not, and will not get out of trouble just by going to full power. Make sure that you also have your instructor teach you how to glide, if he knows how to glide. Believe it or not, most guys do not know how to glide, and didn’t learn in their primary training. I find that a lot with the guys that I train jets. I see guys wreck and total their airplane/jet when the engine quits for no good reason, other than poor training. Most make the mistake of giving up all their energy and diving it down to the ground going too fast, and land off runway, when they had the altitude and energy to have landed on the runway. They either put it on the ground too soon and flip it, or give up the energy and altitude, only to stall it into the ground. These jets cruise around at about 150 miles an hour plus. If a jet engine quits in level flight, you have approximately 100 miles an hour to lose to approach speed. This is a lot of energy management. The best is to maintain altitude as the speed bleeds off until reaching best glide. Best glide for a sports jet is the wing cord parallel to the horizon. For warbird jets or your Eurosport, wings level and go to a 5 degree angle of attack and plan your decent. Any higher of an angle of attack, then the jet is creating more drag than lift, causing a higher rate of decent. A flame out with either of my jets in level flight, both will glide at least half way around a large pattern. So, take your time and breathe. If you fly full scale and know this, I’m sorry to go through it, but it might help someone else reading this forum.

Take care! Dan