Now, getting to your recent work and questions on set up:
- Completed the support for the battery area Okay, would love to see what you did there
- Strengthened the sponsons, though I will add a little carbon here around the split to make it solid If you need to beef that area up, stick to a light to medium weight fiberglass. Carbon fiber is actually very brittle and can easily break along the grain. If you can get your hands on some CF cloth, it would be better but will require a significant amount of resin to fill the weave, meaning more weight and weight is something you need to try to avoid
- Doubled the rear of the sponson for the turn fin Doubled with what? Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like you have been using lite ply for the structure. If that is the case, you could have a problem with the fin mounting bracket and sponson transom but nothing that can't be dealt with. The problem with lite ply is that it's got birch skin with a balsa core. Balsa is relatively spongy, thus meaning that if the birch facing fails or cracks, the fin bracket will start smashing the balsa every time you turn the boat. I'll hold off on going into this further until I hear from you
- Started installing the strut mount Cool, would love to see what you've done
A couple of questions:
- The boat needs to turn right, am I right in saying I mount the turn fin and the rudder on the right? Turn fin goes on the rear of the right sponson as far out as you can get it. This is for stability as the closer to the hull you are, the harder it is to get the fin to hold the boat down. As for the rudder, I would almost install it as shown. My preference would be to have it directly behind the engine bay wall as that area, depending on the rudder mount used, is more stable than other locations My Pak hull has the rudder in that location, but for a different reason. I wanted to be able to pull the rudder to turn the boat as it's easier on the control rod. Pushing a rudder to get it to turn can, if the rod isn't very strong, cause the rod to bend or flex while turning, reducing how much control you have https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...4&d=1375582324
- As I want to get the motor forward as far as possible, the standard stuffing tube length of 300mm (1 foot) won't be long enough. Can I join them with solder? You can, though it would require a sleeve of a larger size of tubing added to the outside of the joint. I know longer lengths of tubing are available since I used longer on both the cooling line(from transom to engine bay) and stuffing tube on several of my boats. The cooling line is visible in the picture linked below. The black line is actually a long drill bit inserted into the end of the line to keep it at the angle I wanted it to be until the epoxy holding it in cured. IIRC, the line was part of a 900mm long tube but, at this time, I don't have a full service hobby shop in my area so I'll have to see what I can find and get back to you on that
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/att...6&d=1375582323
Last edited by Hydro Junkie; 07-02-2021 at 05:36 AM.