Water is another issue I have been tackling. I would return from a run with water sloshing around the hull. I knew that with the interior installed it would only make it more difficult to upkeep as time went on. As a result of that, I had to cut access panels into the forward section where there is a fixed floor. This allows me to check under the floorboards and address leaks as well as run wires as needed deep below deck.

The salon floor was also reset to fully removable. This area is where I had relocated the power distribution panel, port and starboard LIPOS. Ultimately, this is the heart of the electrical system aboard the boat. I found that keeping the electrical and LIPOS out of the motor room was important because the motors used to get hot in there.

I also did many changes to the plumbing for water cooling over the years. The cooling system had two purposes, one was to cool the motors and speed controls, and the other was pure aesthetics. I had set out to blow large volumes of water out of the wet exhaust ports to capture the full sized Dauntless. I did so many different things from automotive washer motors, cheap water pump motors and more before ditching all of it. Then I came up with a way to custom make (4) 1/4" wide brass tubes per propeller that forced water through the tubes, cool the motors, esc's and blow out the transom in force. It Worked!!
Astro Flight
I also realized with he original Harbor Master ESC's that they really didn't need to be water cooled because they designed perfectly for the motors. Well, as time went by, the shrink wrap on the speed controls gave way, electrical components in the ESC came into contact with a cooling plate and started a fire aboard. Thankfully there was enough aluminum in the motor room from keeping the fire from spreading. Both ESC's were replaced with new ones and interestingly the new Astro Flight ESC's come in protected cases. It makes me wonder if they caught flack for burning down a boat? I currently still have the cooling plates installed for now however I'll eventually bypass the cooling plate and send the cooling forward to the LIPO Holders where they will circle back and back out the transom. The reason for this is to finish up some aluminum LIPO holders that I designed and if one was to go rogue and ablaze, the water cooling tube will melt and potentially save the boat. Hopefully I'll never have to experience that but my Dauntless will always a test bed for new ideas.

-Rich.