Now, some details about the breaking in process.

However old your glo engine is, it certainly is internally coated with glo and oil residues. Those make it airtight and give you a proper compression.

Now you are on gas, you must get rid of this coating and replace it with the gas + oil one.

This takes some time and you have to be patient about it. It does take time but you will soon see your engine become more consistent, easier to adjust and to start.

How to know that you are broken in ? well, I think a good sign is that the accelerations are getting easier and easier. It will be almost pefect when you are done.

So, here is the way:
* Disconnect your ignition Vcc supply !
* Prime heavily your carb. When the the carb feeding pipe is full of gas, go on turning the prop clockwise for two or three turns.
* Then open your carb around mid Thr .
* Power on the ignition
* use your starter. If it does not start then move your Thr a bit more open or closed.
At some time it will start coughing and will start.
* let it heat up where it is, restart if it stalls, opening the needle some 1 click.
* When hot, move up your Thr until full open.
* Then adjust your main needle, remember one click is a lot ! Check for the best RPM and make it one click richer then.
Let it run like this for 3 hours, of course you can stop it as you want, and restart.
after some 3 hours, you will see the engine is getting much better. Start adjusting your Valve curve, 1 or 2 % at a time, checking for the behaviour. At the beginning, 1 or 2 % will be sometimes enough to stall the engine. No problem with that.
* then start lowering your Thr. Your curve has 10 points from 0 to 100%. Each curve point corresponds to each of your Thr stick positions( -50% is one quarter of total, 0% is middle, etc).
* adjust for your best RPM and accelerations. At the beginning those will be poor, this is normal.
* Run the engine for another 2 hours, adjusting each point.
Normally the curve points I gave you are a very good starting point.

After some 5 or 6 hours (not less), your engine will start easily, accelerate well and have a steady RPM. It is then broken in.

Do not get despaired if it is long, let things adapt. Be patient it will work for you too !

Now is time to adjust the first curve point, the idle one, which will allow you to start by hand with one or two flips. As usual, adjust the curve, until you reach the first point. Take your time. Adjustments are 1% at a time: your engine will then show a unique curve, adapted to his own self.
This can only be done when the engine is broken in, for success.
Then it will idle long and steady and low.

After all this, go back to your curves on your TX and tick the "smoothe" option, to let the curve become round and continuous with no edges between points. Do this for both THR and Valve curves.

One point: a converted glo does heat more than a glo. Remember this when setting the engine under a canopy ! just don't, or organize a sufficient air flux for proper cooling !

Before flying your engine for the first time, adjust for one click richer because it will have less load on the prop when in the air since the plane goes forward. If you don't, the engine may overheat or stall.

Landmarks:
1) an engine which stalls brutally at any Thr position is too lean: add 1 click to better feed it. Or 2 if needed.
2) any difficult start is because of insufficient priming on the carb. Start with a low Thr opening.
3) fly your engine 200 RPM richer than peak RPM, so it does not heat.
4) any bubble in the piping will lean your engine and adjusting is then impossible. There are some bubbles to eliminate during the first minutes of running. You can check on this by watching the carb input pipe . It is useless to try any adjustments before you got rid of those bubbles.
5) an engine starts rather better when cold.
6) Don't forget to insulate your carb from the cyl heat, with some piece of plywood or heavy cardboard.
7) I use gas with 8% lawn mower synth oil. If you are worried you can use 10% in the beginning. Keep the engine oil vent open.
8) One single Hi needle click corresponds to roughly 15% on the valve curve. Adjusting the needle will correspond to moving up or down (richer or leaner) all of your curve points.

Enjoy !