I'd ask around of those with this model about the need for a pull-pull system. Some benefit from it others require the weight in the tail, engine specific and possibly battery specific weight concerns here for balance...

I'd prefer the pull system for 3D work. I like the push-pull hard link but believe its better to keep as much weight around the center of the model as possible and find that the servos hold up better to the normal daily abuse of shock and hangar rash...

Sounds like your suggesting the angle of the push-rod will see around 25-35 degrees to reach the rudder control arm, is the correct? I'd be surprised if this was an accurate assumption. Once the servo is in place it will sit above the fuse around a 1/2" to the top of the servo control arm. In most cases the the ruder control arm pivot connector will be at least 3/4" of the rudder sheeting. This presents no problem. Utilize a ball end at the servo arm and you'll be fine.

Locating the pull-pull wire exits is really pretty easy, IMO. Lets say you have a 3" double arm and 3" rudder control arm spacing, they should be the same dimension. Locate a spot on the fuse that is 3" wide. Make your slots around a 1/2" longer in front of and behind this mark. Of course you'll have to determine the correct height as well. Use the rudder control arm and double arms height to spot this location. There are other methods if this does not make sense.

Is a single standard size rudder servo recommended for this model?

There is nothing wrong wit JR 8411 servo. These are top notch servos. There has been some problems with them same as the rest...