I did think about retracts until I remembered I'm dealing with a high wing[X(]> I cut the holes in the accessible ribs with a ball cutter on a dremel and the innaccessible ribs under inboard wing sheeting with a sharpened piece of tube. What I can't figure out how to do is insert the paper tube itself. I didn't even think about it's purpose also being for leads slapping the covering in the higher performance birds.

I did remove all but about a half inch of dihedral and what is left is based on some comments here about a flat wing looking droopy while on the ground. The decision to remove the dihedral was made late in the wing construction so i just sawed it completely in half. I made some short 3/16" thick 4-ply dihedral braces and epoxied them on both sides of the main spar about 2" up each wing and then glassed the whole joint with two layers of glass 2.5 inches wide and finishing epoxy. The rear spar remained cut and I am hoping the glass joint carries his load. there is a wider glass joint where the wing bolt holes penetrate the TE. You make a good point about the constand chord wing not giving me a warbird stall response. In this case I just get the construction experience and hopefully riduculously slow flight capabilities. Time to (re)learn something, what is the aerodynamical purpose of the tapered wing?

I have made preparations to move the landing gear forward enough to clear the bomb bay doors. The gear is the bent aluminum type with tapered legs that either taper forwards or rearwards depending upon which way you orient them when mounted. One way puts the axles exactly in line with the LE and the other puts them 1" forward of the LE. The looks are affected slightly if the "lean" goes backwards but I only care about the best performance. Any thoughts? The holes are symetrical and for (4) 10-24 nylon screws so it can be reversed in the field. I have thought about bigger tires as in a bush plane. One of the pictures shows the wooden blocks for the gear mounting.

I also epoxied, screwed and glassed (probably that overkill thing going on here) an aluminum plate to receive the wing dowels. Hitting the middle of the wings LE with a 1/4 " dowel left little plywood for the receiving holes in the fuse so I added metal. I am nervouse about 1/4" wood dowels so I might go with aluminum dowels. They are 1/4" because I am nervous about big holes in my LE. I will probably add additional glass to this area of the wing as well once the dowels are in place. The drill in the picture is to show intent, the wing is not anchored well enough yet for drilling.

What engines are going on the LT40 twin? That sounds fun.

Thanks for the input.