I totally disagree with your assesment nitro, the bottles work for those who dont expect NOS.

Installation
The kit should have a new hollow bar bolt w/ nipple, a small jig and drill bit, a bottle, piece of hard fuel tubing and a mounting bracket for the bottle.
1. Before removing the carb, make note of the carbs orientation to the engine, you'll need to know this later.
2. remove carb and bar bolt.
3. Using the jig and drill bit supplied, you need to drill a hole in the carb base that once installed, will align with the new hollow bar bolt orifice. Did you take notes (#1)?
4. CLEAN carb, be sure not to leave any shavings.
5. Install carb with the new hollow bar bolt, check your work by tempararily installing the fuel tubing, you shoud be able to blow thru the tube and hear it inside the carb, if it checks out, install linkages.
6. Next, determine where you want the bottle, the shorter the hard fuel line, the better. Also make sure it wont interfer with anything like linkages, moving parts, or general maint and mount the bottle.
7. Route the hard fuel tubing and secure the ends with zip ties.
Thats it, wont take 30 minutes.

Are they a worth the upgrade?
Thats debatable but IMO, they do work. I found the stock bottles to small to be very effective so I use spent co2 cartridge from a pellet gun. I drill and tap them for a straight nipple, clean it up making sure no shavings are still trap'd inside, then install the nipple with sealant (dont get sloppy, as to have globs of sealant inside the bottle that could be jar'd lose).
Ace has some sweet brackets (hardware section) for mounting a custom bottle.

What to expect from a bottle?
Many think its a mini NOS system, in fact, the bottle isn't a power additive at all, its a power manager.
The bottle will smooth out most power spikes by spreading your existing power spikes over a larger rpm band. I find Off road engines responde nicely to my boost bottles.

How do they work?
Basically they increase plenum volume between the carb and valve.
The incoming air gets flowing, then the valve slams shut, momentarily creating positive pressure below the carb, this pressure is stored in the bottle till the next valve cycle, when the valve opens, it creates a negitive pressure in the plenum which releases the stored pressure, hence the name -boost bottle.

A boost bottle doesnt make tuning any harder when properly installed.
Due to the added "possible" airleaks" , boost bottles need to be check'd often (i check mine monthly) to avoid tuning nitemares.

I have a Pico Comp w factory boost. I can definitely tell a difference in how the engine reacts with it on versa off, its much smoother with it on.
I saw a very noticable improvement when I bypassed the stock chamber and used my own bottle.

Dont expect a NOS system, but if your engine is touchy (suddenly jumps 5000 rpms breaking the tires lose) when accellerating, a bottle is the ticket IMO.