Fan, Various grits sand-paper, 1/2" MDF (about 2'x4'), 3M spray contact glue (3M 77 I think, or equivalent).

The biggest fallacy in all wood-working is that you can hold sandpaper, and get good results. This is wrong. Kit building is 25% building, 50% sanding (and "finnishing"), and 25% covering (detailing). Since so much time is spent with sand-paper, get the right setup.

A Fan to keep the balsa dust out your throat (it really clogs me up, more than other woods) - also use the fan continuously when using CA glue. I use a shop-vac as well to keep the dust to a minimum.

Then, get rolls of avout 4"wide sand-paper in various grits. Cur the 1/2" MDF into sanding blocks of various sizes (at least 2 of each size) - 2feetx4inches 1footx4inches, and other "convenient" sizes for smaller jobs. Using the spray adhesive, glue different grits of sand-paper to each side of the blocks. Use a marker to mark the paper grit if you can't easily tell.

I use 80 grit (very quick, shaping things), 120, 150, and 220. I then use 320, and other grits later in the finnishing stages. Setting up each block properly means that flat, convenient sanding tools are always available, and you can alwyas get good joints and surfaces. I can typically set up the blocks for a kit, and not have to replace the sand-paper for the entire kit. Each kit gets new paper. A heat-gun is normally enough to loosen the adhesive on the sandpaper, so you can re-use the sanding blocks.

Hummm... yes, sanding is a big part of kit building. Be prepared. If you are set up right, then sanding is fun. If not, then sanding is a PITA, and your finnish quality is not as good.

Finally, if you can get it, find a "closed-cell" foam pad. These are typically fairly stiff rubbery foam sections, somethimes used as flooring, etc (kneeling pads are a good example). Sand-paper on one of those produces a flexible, yet even surface for doing "contour" sanding. Every sanding job is done better when using the right sanding block. NEVER use sandpaper directly with your hand.

gus