Ok, I decided to start a new thread regarding the building of the "Tempest", which is a thoroughly tested and modified 2 meter wood plane, based on the fuse box of Ron Chidgey's (and Gator R/C'S) Typhoon 2000. if you would like to see the progression of how I got here, do a search in this forum for a thread called "2 meter plans".
I have built many versions of the Typhoon 2000, making changes and modifications with each one. With this last one, I decided to try and make a break from the wing a tail design, moments, areas, sweep angles and the like in order to produce a much more competetive and aggressive design, capable of performing all of the current F3A manuevers with minimal effort and mixing. The end result was so much different in many ways than a Typhoon 2000, I decided to call this version the "Tempest", with all due respect and credit to Ron Chidgey for designing the incredibly successful Typhoon series of aircraft.
After many flights and a few different pilot's trying it and testing new things, this has to be the most user friendly pattern design I have yet run across. Everyone has a slightly different way they like to fly, a "feel" so to speak, and getting that feel with this plane is simply a matter of throws and expo. As of this writing, there is NO mix in this plane whatsoever. After much testing I have found a very very slight tendancy to proverse roll couple with extreme rudder throw, but it's so miniscule I haven't felt the need to even mix it out. A 5 MPH crosswind will have more effect on the plane's attitude than the coupling. There is absolutely NO pitch coupling, and you can make flat 360 deg turns with rudder only on a calm day. It will also knife edge loop, hover, and a host of other 3d thingies that I personally care nothing about, but I know others do, and it will.....but that's not where this plane's strength lies.
Spins are absolutely gorgeous with rudder and elevator only, and it breaks clean and recovers instantly. Snaps are whatever your heart desires....it will do it. Fast and clean, slow and gracefully coning (not that a snap is inherently graceful), or whatever. This area was the biggest and most pronounced weakness of the Typhoon 2000.
The plane tracks more like a Prophecy, but due to the drag of the airframe, slows down nicely for very controllable constant speed flying. It will slow down to a crawl, and yet still has a decent sink rate to make spoilerons unneccessary for landing. Want it to sink steeper? Add elevator, and you're on the runway. The original Typhoon 2000 would float for a mile.
Lastly the construction: wood. Why is it that most people believe that they MUST have an all composite airframe to be competetive? News flash: A properly built wood airframe is stronger, more durable, more tolerant of different set ups, more repairable, and if properly built, LIGHTER than an all composite airframe. So if that's true, why do all of the "top" pattern plane manufacturers use fiberglass, carbon, kevlar and foam? Simple: mass production. First off, the availability and cost of 4-6 lb balsa required to make a 2 meter kit would be prohibitive, although it can be done (see the top Japanese and some European kits). When they can throw some glass, C/F, kevlar and resin in a mold, cut some shapes out of foam and sell it to you for a couple thousand dollars with less work on your end.....well, there you have your answer. But is it better? No, not particularly. In many ways it's much worse, because it's pre molded, you are limited to thier equipment selection or close to it. Any major alteration is out of the question for the average guy. And durability? Well as long as you take care of both equally, the wood plane will far outlast the composite plane.
All of this being said, the Tempest is by definition a composite airframe. It uses wood, carbon fiber and fiberglass in a specific combination to provide one of the strongest, most user friendly competition airframes currently out there.
I have many years of experience doing composite repairs of commercial heavy jets, so I have an understanding of practical composite application. I only mention this to kill the notion that I'm some crotchety 90 year old ex free flight modeler that thinks anyone that uses fiberglass or any glue other than Ambroid is a heretic. Not true, I just have a different philosophy than has been marketed to the average pattern guy. I'm not "selling" anything just yet, I'm just offering an alternative for the guy that thinks if he doesn't pay a zillion dollars for a composite airframe, he might as well not bother. This simply isn't true, and that myth needs to die a horrible and painful death RIGHT HERE.
Ok enough of the history lesson
I originally offered to make drawings of the modifications for the few people who wanted them, and only ask for my cost in copies and materials plus actual shipping. To say I'm overwhelmed by the number of people that responded would be an understatement. I'm genuinely flattered. I expected maybe 3 or 4.....well, good grief.....let's just say my local printer will be very happy to see me walk in the door again!
So, let's use this thread to share information, techniques and pictures, and ask and answer questions anyone might have about this plane. I'l lstart, as I am just now beginning to frame up a new one, so now is the time to hit me with questions and requests for pics.
In the next post I'll begin going into some details on parts, materials, and general notes on building this thing. I'll try and be fairly thorough, and go back and edit in if I forget anything. This thread is for you guys: the true modelers, craftsmen, the ones not afraid to take a road less traveled in today's world. And you'll see how easy it is to build a top rate pattern plane out of sticks yourself.
Here's a couple of pics of the finished plane, and my ugly face. Heh.
Many thanks,
-Mike