Good question, I practice when I can. More in the season, less during the winter. As much as I can though.

The landing gear block should be made like a sheath, with an upper and lower 1/4" block and spacers as thick as the gear, so the gear slip fits between them. You can use a thinner block for one side, but I wouldn't go as low as 1/8".

Cut your holes in the fuse and sand the block edges to shape until it just fits between the sides without bowing the fuse. Clean and run sandpaper over the contact area, the epoxy it in place.

What I do then is make some triangle braces that run up the side of the fuse and the front and rear of the block. All this does is spread the stress so as not to crack it when you have a stiff landing. Then just drill, tap, install.

As for the exposed wood, just use finishing resin and .75 oz or less glass cloth. Let it cure for about 2 days, then sand/prime/ rinse and repeat until smooth.

As for the bulkheads.......if you can get the old ones out intact, use them as templates. (yeah good luck there). Otherwise get some poster board and cut/fit/have a beer/cut fit/have a beer until it fits. If you're too buzzed by the time you have it to shape, wait till tomorrow to glue it [8D]

Seriously that is going to take a lot of patience. It would be easier if I could show you, but hopefully you get the idea. if you happen to feel like coming to the districts I can fix you right up.

Cya
-Mike

Hi,

is there anybody building Tempest? I'm working on my 2nd instance. It's slightly modified, I've reduced the sweept back both wing and stab. I will use one servo for elevator, and moved the wing and stab forward to compensate CG change. We will make fuselage moulds with my friend, so the next instance will have fiberglass fuse. I like very much this plane.

Attila

Hi Attila
Yes I sure will build another one, it is a fantastic plane and well worth the effort

Hi,

here is my new (modified) version. Less sweept-back, one elevator servo in the cockpit. Maybe this is the last one before a new design.

That really looks good!

That was a good plane for it's time, too bad you couldn't get a cowl and canopy to save your life. But, there are other options now

-Mike

Try this link:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_418054/mpage_13/key_meter%2Cplans/tm.htm]2 meter plans thread[/link]

The glassing stuff sorta starts about post # 302, on page #13. It's old and dated, but just read through and you'll find some jewels there.

-Mike

I know this is way out of date but is there any chance i could buy a canopy and cowl for the T2k, I just sold mine and thinking about building another.
Any help from you guys would be appreciated .Thank you .
Phil
Please send me a PM as my outlook email does not work at the moment and will not give me notification of any replies!

Mike,
Are plans, cowl and canopy still available?

Gator R/c still exists, but they don't show any of the kits and parts. I believe Gator is now owned by The owner of F3A unlimited (Mike Mueller). He may be able to refer you to a source. All the Typhoon series designs (and the Giles) were wood, but some were also kitted in glass and foam (the Typhoon 1000 and the Giles). The final iteration of the series would really be the Black Magic which Mike Hester developed from the Typhoon 2000. Don Carlson at Rcaiir.com sells a glass and foam version of the Black Magic (v3 I believe).
Good luck, they all fly very well.