ORIGINAL: raideron

Hi all,

OK, I'm really thinking about getting my fourth plane.. It'll
be a profile kit due to money and the learning curve.. 3D:-)
I think I have the stick part pretty much down pat.. I did say
I think:-)

Anyway its the covering part.. Mainly the trim..
I guess you put the main colored covering on and put the
trim pieces on top of it??? Am I correct?

>Correct.


If so, How do you
get the cuts stright? and the same on both sides?

>First, do your cutting on a piece of glass. The cut lines are cleaner.
>Next, use a NEW blade for cutting.
>Finally, measure the trim piece BEFORE CUTTING and MEASURE AND
>MARK the location of it on the plane.
>Use a METAL straight edge (or ruler ) to guide the blade for making
>the cuts.

>I suggest starting with something like a sunburst scheme. The
>trim will be wide on the trailing edges and taper to a point at
>the leading edge.

>To apply the trim, wet the area with BLUE Windex and apply/slide
>the trim piece into position. Be sure to remove the backing and to
>have the GLUE SIDE down. Then squeegee out the excess Windex
>and carefully BLOT the excess. Let it sit for 24 hours and you
>should be all set. If you have any of the edges lifting, use
>MonoKote Trim Solvent to reattach them OR use a trim iron set
>on low.

>I know you said patience is not your strong suit, but
>a nice trim scheme does require that you take your time
>and work carefully (and frequently slowly ).


I must
admit patience is not one of my better virtues..(My problem)
But I would like it to come out at least OK.. I was just
thinking of just painting the trim on but it seems to scratch
a lot eaiser.. Any tips/help

>I would not suggest painting the trim scheme. The film
>covering (frequently MonoKote ) must be masked off.
>then the areas you want to paint need to be CAREFULLY
>scuffed to a "frosted" appearance using 0000 steel wool
>or the green pot scrubbers. Be careful you do not scuff
>through the covering. After that, the area has to be
>thoroughly cleaned, the edges of the masking tape
>need to be sealed to prevent bleeding. Then it can be
>primed and finally it can be painted. If the paint is not
>fuel proof, you will need to clear coat it with something
>that is fuel proof (LusterKote clear ).

>Unless you have a GOOD AMOUNT of patience, I really
>don't suggest painting, although it would be a way to
>develop patience.

Have a Great Sunday People